No Worries

I never know what day of the week it is. Seriously, if it wasn't for Christmas trees, presents, and twinkle lights I'd probably still think its November. I'm convinced someone or something is eating time. Anyway, here I find myself more than a month out of Cairo. A month of cold, a month traffic laws, a month without falafel, a month without hearing Arabic.

I can't lie- I thought that by now my world would be rocked. I'd be slipping around on the ice of Minnesota as a new person.

Every day I change and learn new things, but travel presses my buttons. My high school trip to France started me up for business. I learned to take charge and lead in Australia. Rwanda infused my whole being with the love of people and culture. And Cairo? Two months in Egypt ... still waiting. What the HECK!? Where is my breakthrough!? So far, I've only been seeing the breakthrough or rather, breakdown of my bank account.

Wasn't some BIG change part of my package deal?

Of course, this is drama speaking. Not a day goes by that I don't think of the beauty and hospitality of my friends in Egypt. Or the colors of a country filled to the brim with ancient culture and people. But I'm talking about me. What has changed about me?! Other than a higher tolerance for noise and fiber.

Well...

Tolerance is the key word, I think. Tolerance.

Not exactly what I would have predicted pre-Cairo, but nevertheless, I think TOLERANCE has been my gift from Egypt. Shukran Egypt for your creation of civilization, beer, language, etc etc ... and thank you for tolerance.

Tolerance, patience, understanding, sympathy ... however you want to say it, well, I think I've got it! After two months of living amongst some 19 million people, without the right of freedom of speech and movement, a schedule on 'African time', and uselessness of English. This year's holiday shoppers, long lines, bad winter drivers, crying children, and a few extra cookie calories are nothing. "No Problem/No Worries" was the English phrase I heard most in Egypt, and did I ever pick it up.

The phrase and mindset of "No Problem" have become a daily essential in my life. Because really, what are we stressing about? Why are we in such a hurry, and what is the point of dwelling? We've got a life to live people, and we're living it amongst a world full of unpredictable human beings. LET THINGS GO. This new level of tolerance may or may not be my Egyptian breakthrough, but whatever brought it on - I like it.

Life presents itself more beautifully when we're not worrying about the small stuff.

Happy Holidays and Hakuna Matata!

Lee-Da

onetwo

2 weeks into home life.

2 days into job searching.

Who knew depression and discouragement could set in so quickly.

I’ve been pretty bummed lately, feeling really out of control and sad in this whirlwind of readjustment, job-hunting, and frankly- loneliness. Welch Minnesota is the prefect place to sit back and enjoy the peacefulness of Mother Nature, not so much for entertainment. Although, watching Ringo be chased by our new chickens did throw the family into a fit of giggles.

The other week during my visit to Ames, my beautiful friend Megen told me that she had made the decision to be happy.

Made the DECISION to be happy.

Made the decision FOR HERSELF to be happy.

Made the decision to be HAPPY.

Today, it finally set in what a wonderful idea that is! Who wants to hire a frumpy, unenthusiastic, bitter recent graduate? My disheartened attitude has done nothing but hurt the people who are closest to me, and put me further behind on the ‘to hire’ list.

SO. I started with a smile and a library trip.

Book List:

“Guide to Internet Job Searching” Co published with the Public Library Association.

“The Perfect Resume: Today’s Ultimate Job Search Tool” by Tom Jackson

“Resume Buzz Words: Get Your Resume to the Top of the Pile” by Erik Herman and Sarah Rocha; it just might work!

“The Vagina Monologues” by Eve Ensler; because she keeps me spunky, and the courageousness of women keeps me motivated.

“Three Cups of Tea: One Man’s Mission to Fight Terrorism and Build Nations… One School at a Time” by Greg Mortenson and David Oliver Relin; I am constantly on a hunt for inspiration, and my lovely IRIS crew tells me it is a must read.

DVD List:

Michael Moore’s “Sicko”; I’ve got not health insurance …

Ugly Betty Season One; simply, I love her.

2 weeks until all these things are due back to Redwing Public Library.

Festival Time

Bare trees, red decorations, Christmas music, warm food, and chilly weather.

I've officially arrived back in the United States just in time for the holiday season. For that, I am thankful.

I thought I would freeze after being spoiled by Cairo's weather, but the warmness of family, friends, and the holiday season have treated me well. Wool socks, tea, and quilts haven't hurt either.

Thanksgiving was a success, and I'm so happy I was home for it. Thank God for America and a holiday focused on feasting, chatting, napping, and ad shopping! Now, I just need to gear up and bundle up for Christmas.

My friends in Egypt and Muslim friends around the world are also in the midst of holiday celebrations. During my time in Cairo I was fortunate enough to celebrate the end of Ramadan, Eid ul-Fitr. Approaching now is the Eid al-Adha (Eid meaning "Festival"). According to a BBC article (linked), "Eid al-Adha, the Feast of the Sacrifice, is a three-day festival that is celebrated after the Hajj - the annual pilgrimage to the holy city of Mecca that every Muslim who can afford to and is capable is required to perform once." During this time individuals focus on the ideas of sacrifice, giving, and sharing.

Sound familiar Thanksgiving and Christmas celebrators? During this holiday season lets remember that people around the world have more similarities than differences. The joys of love, sharing, and good friends and family are bigger than religion, skin color, and nationally.

'Egyptians Gear Up for Eid al-Adha'

Let us remember our neighbors both near and far during this holiday season.

Bittersweet

Trying to soak it all in.

Mouse Trap

OhNo.

Khalda is scared of cats and I of mice.

Our apartment - has a problem.

SingSing

An interesting article from BBC about the upcoming changes to Cairo's call to prayer...

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/middle_east/8344055.stm

Personally, I enjoy the chaos. In fact, I can hear it right now. :)

Out the Window

I've been asked what I'm going to miss most about Cairo (after Khalda, of course). Although there are many things: fresh fruit, the music - drums, hips, loudness, ridiculous nighttime dramas, warm weather, falafel & koshari, written Arabic ... I think, what I'm going to miss most is the sunset.

Perhaps it is because I came to Egypt in the last throws of Ramadan. When sunset meant it was finally time for millions to enjoy the first sips of water and tastes of food after a long day (and month) of fasting. It meant tables filled with family and friends and strangers on the streets with dates (the food) to share.

There is something about knowing that soon I'll be hearing the forth (out of five) call to prayer for the day. With about 4,000 mosques in Cairo the start of "Allahu Akbar" or "Allah u Akbar" generally saying, "God is the greatest" is sometimes early, delayed, echoed, distant or near ... but still for millions of people it is a time to pause and pray; for me, it is a time to reflect and soak in the one consistency in this country.

Everything seems just a little quieter when the sun is setting.

The colors are vibrant even through the frighteningly visible smog and pollution; hazy oranges and reds.

Unlike so many places I've experienced where the blink of an eye brings darkness after a day of sun- in Cairo, the sunset seems to stick around long enough for those who care to notice.

breathe

"Anybody can get worked up, if they have the intention. It's peacefulness that is hard to come by on purpose." - Barbara Kingsolver, Pigs in Heaven
Trying to see the bright side.

Dirty Rain

After spending too long washing my clothes in the semi-automatic washing machine (dirty water digging, rinsing, hanging them on the line, etc). It decided to rain in Cairo. You can see every polluted drop that hit my clothes in the approximately 30 seconds it rained.

& now, I just saw/tried to kill the biggest living bug I've ever seen. It was crawling around in the kitchen. (The fact that I was even in there is quite the feat as I've been avoiding that half of the apartment - rumor has it we have a mouse) I wanted some crackers that Khalda and I have been saving. When I opened the new package - ants came crawling out. I am now finding them on my body.

These are examples of my exciting parts of the day.

There are moments - when 12 days seems like an eternity.

aysh

Yelling man/alarm clock mystery solved. After nearly two months of some man yelling the same thing everyday between 11-11:30; I finally know what he is saying. My guesses were right- he is selling bread. What I didn't know, is that he is selling it to the obese man who lives upstairs.

Lizard in the Bathroom

I have so many things I want to show, to share, to teach, to tell, to learn ...
There are so many things that I do not understand, do not like, do not believe, do not deserve, do not think I'll be able to live without when I leave...

My thoughts, my journal, my sentence forming skills - all a mess.

For weeks I've been forming this mini-list of things I'm going to appreciate when I return home. I've thought it would be a cute lil' diddy to post, but for reasons unknown until now I haven't been able to. Mostly I thought nothing of it; blamed backspace and my spaced-out mind.

Today I realized that it is because my list isn't very cute or funny.

A shower, comfortable bed, bug free kitchen/bathroom, English, familiar people, the concept of lines, manners, reliable electricity, cross walks, clean air, laws against litter, a basic trash program, clean water, freedom of dress/movement/media/speech...

Even I can't see where the line between superficial worries and political issues begin and end. List typed, I still don't know where to go with this.

It didn't take long to realize I wasn't just another American cruising the Nile, eating mangoes, and checking out the Pyramids. A new arrival though is the weight of being more fully emerged into a different culture.

The longer I'm here, the more I see. The more I see, the more I understand. The more I understand, the more I learn. The more I learn, the more I realize- I have no. freaking. idea.

It is a good thing I journal. It helps me process this mess of thoughts, and keeps me from talking to myself too much. Works as a good calendar too - I actually sat and stared at the date for a while today. When did my return date get so close? I can't wait for that bed ... and shower ... and ...

Hot Pink Bow Tie

Apparently, I'm not the only one in the apartment that impulse buys. Welcome to the daily life of Khalda and Jeanna:

[Khalda walks in the apartment]
K: Look what I got for my cousin's kids! [Holds up a black plastic bag]
J: Khalda, what is INSIDE the bag.
K: I'm too scared to get it out. AHHH I'm way too scared. [With one finger she pulls out this nasty furry toy cat that I scoffed at yesterday on the street] AHHHHH. I GOT IT!
J: OHMYGOD [Laughing hysterically]
K: [Turns on the beast - which prompts its eyes to turn neon green, start screaming like a dying animal, wagging its tail, and walking around the room] I'm so scared.
J: If you think it is so scary, why did you buy it?
K: I don't know, the fur is nice. [Silence - except for the demon-cat] But Jeanna, I'm really scared. Turn it off.
J: Plllllllease Khalda, don't forget to say please.

morningtimefun

Nothing like a rainy day to make you buy ridiculous things.

Cherrios: 6 US Dollars.
Tea pot that looks like a chicken: 25 US Dollars.

I would simply die and go to heaven if it crows when hot.

Baby, It's Cold Outside

Signs of Winter in Cairo:

The police men have changed from their white uniforms to black.
80 degree weather during the day and 'cold' at night.
It rained for about two minutes today, this only happens a handful of times a year.
Khalda wears sweat pants to bed now.
Street vendors have full supplies of fuzzy sweaters, mittens, wool socks, and hats.
Leather jackets - everywhere. Especially pleasant in the hot Metros.
While everyone else is shivering, I feel great!

Minnesota is going kill me.

chore.

Showering via leaky sink and plastic bowls of various sizes hasn't gotten easier or more graceful with time; like I once thought it would.

Thank You Ensler and Kingsolver

Tilde and I had a long conversation about what it takes to appreciate Cairo. We concluded that one 'simply' needs to have a passion for culture, an open/flexible mind and person, and an ability to see beauty in the smallest of things.

A Beauty In:

The glimpse of a leopard print shirt under the full covering of a niqab.

Piles of fruit for sale on the street; the greens of mangoes, oranges (ironic, I know), apples, peppers, and pears.

Call to prayer, 5 times a day when millions (billions around the world) take a pause in their day to drop everything and praise their God. I see it as the only consistent thing in Cairo (other than bad traffic), it comforts me.

Mostly, I see beauty in strength. In Khalda and her friends (along with the entire Sudanese community) who face daily racism, but continue on with smiling faces. In the elderly who shuffle their way around this chaotic city. In the sweat of people who work hard for minimal pay.

The women here, amaze me. I personally struggle daily with my lack of freedoms due to my sex. I get so angry about my inability to roam, dress, speak, and stare freely. Cat call after cat call, stares that burn, and a constant awareness that I'm female- by the end of the day I'm exhausted. Granted, I face a different kind of harassment than Egyptian women because I am foreign. I am young, American, and in the minds of young Egyptian males I am Angelina, Jennifer, Britney, and Beyonce combined. Yet, through all the oppression when I enter the women's cart on the metro I'm surrounded by smiles, laughter, respect, style, and love.

Today tutoring I got to meet three inspirational women. Ask me their names and I will not remember them. Ask me about their smile - and I'll do my best to describe it. All three of the women came in today, simply to talk. To practice their skills in English.

First there was the woman who works at the Cairo Opera House. She is an artist who finds happiness in the warmness of orange, yellow, and red. She lives with her mother and it is obvious she wants more, but doesn't complain. Instead she talks about her job and friends. She talks about her dreams to travel, because when she travels she feels alive.

Then there was the young Somali woman. She studies both Arabic and English to be a Social Worker. She is one of two Somali students in her class at Cairo University. Her daily 45 minute trip each way to school doesn't bother her, because here she feels safe. There is no one trying to hurt her in Cairo, no killing on the streets, a constant fear of violence does not exsist. So she complains about nothing.

I got to end my time with a middle aged single mother from Eritrea. I was able to sit beside a woman who would do anything for her children. She didn't understand a word I said in English, or a word in Arabic. She lives with only her children and a constant state confusion and fear. She knows though, that education is her key to survival. So she goes to English classes twice a week, and goes home to immediately teach her children. They teach her the Arabic that their young minds pick up so easily. She holds onto her native tounge also - her children are learning three languages.

These three women were all inspirations, to just keep - keeping on. They were all scared. Scared of being alone, of language, of homework, of the city, of the heat, of their past experiences, of what is still left. Yet, each talked about their mothers and Oprah. About their dreams and passions. Each of them had a smile on their face and in their eyes.

How can I not fall in love with a city when it holds so many surprises and so much beauty?
One just has to search for it a little harder here, but hey, welcome to the Middle East.

Weekend.

Unfair politics, special treatment.

Fog.

Friendship, Al hamdulillah.

BREAKfast

I had my first day tutoring at St. Andrew's today. I help out in a lovely little library with a handful of other volunteers. Oh, how I love being surrounded by books. It was the perfect place to spend the two hours I waited for Khalda to finish her class (so we could go home together).

The moment I walked in I sensed that a book from this tiny little used book library would open my eyes to why I'm here. It sounds dramatic in type, but it happened?

I found Eve Ensler's "Insecure at Last: Losing It in Our Security Obsessed World", or maybe it found me. I literally sat down and read 2/3 without stopping or breathing for that matter.

"My experiences have led me to believe that only by wholly entering, wholly feeling, wholly inhabiting other people and experiences, are we brought to any happiness and security. Only by allowing ourselves to see what we already see and know what we already know are we freed from depression and ennui."

"How can you judge people when you have no idea where they come from?"

Ensler is EXACTLY the motivation/reminder that I needed at the one month mark of my two month journey.

(By the way, in my three hour tutoring session I sat idle for two, but spent a good 50 minutes trying to explain, breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Small steps are steps just the same.)

We Packed Apples and Water

OMG I saw the pyramids.

I could have sat at the edge of the Great Pyramid for hours soaking in all the people (there is a true sense of excitement and wonder illuminating from everyone), the camels/horses/donkeys- dressed in their best, children trying to sell postcards to every 'madam and sir', the "camel ride? camel ride? low price!" guys, history, tourist police (mostly just around for picture taking), the desert, a mild eeriness, Giza Cairo skyline, the overall greatness-vastness of the pyramids/Sphinx. It's been days since I've been there and I still cannot even start to wrap my mind around how those beasts were made.

Khalda and her friend Abdullah made sure that I had the ultimate pyramids experience. They wouldn't let me leave the Khafre's Valley Tomb until I dropped a coin in the 'good luck' well. They made sure we took horrible tourist photos (pushing the pyramids, petting the Sphinx). And I just had to ride a camel. That ended up being quite the adventure- ending in separation from my friends, a lot of yelling, an angry camel man, a trip to the tourist police, and a few tears - ahh, but most importantly... a lot of really great pictures. Because come on, me on a camel ... that is just hilarious. Oh, and Mother- I didn't fall off, even though I know you would have loved that.

I got the best sauna experience of my life when I went inside one of the Queen's Pyramid's and the Great Pyramid. Let me repeat - I WENT INSIDE two pyramids. To do this is not an easy experience nor for the claustrophobic. It is done by crouching down really low in a tight space, then climbing (in the Queen's Pyramid you descend) a ridiculous number of steep metal rods, holding on tightly to wooden planks while you stare at the ass in front of you, and like I said- it is hot in there. It is all worth the 50 LEs- 10USD (and in my case two days of sore legs) in those moments where I overcame the fear of crashing and looked up and around at the interior walls of the pyramid.

All around the day was simply FUN. Khalda, Abdullah and I had such a good time wandering around, taking a break in the air conditioned Solar Boat Museum, trying to remember what we've learned about ancient Egypt, laughing, taking pictures, and people watching. At the end of it all- we chowed down on some falafel and passed out on the metro.

I have seen the sunset at the Giza pryamids. Sometimes, I don't know what I've done to deserve experiences like these...

Picture Book

June 12th Madness

Khalda and I just discovered we have the same birthday.

We even dug out the ol' birth certificate to confirm. Once I master my Arabic numbers- I'm checking again.

I think this means we have to throw a joint birthday party... in October or November.

MISR! Mountian! Mummies!

Okay, well.... I've been up a mountain and back.

This weekend (the weekend here is Friday/Saturday) Khalda and Anwar treated me a nice vacation on the Sinai Coast. I went with a tour bus of about 20 people - a wonderful mix of Americans, Europeans, and Egyptians, etc. Mostly comprising of students, interns, journalists, volunteers, human rights activists - ma people! It was utterly exhausting and relaxing at the same time.

We drove all night to arrive at Mount Sinai around 3AM and started our trek. Thank God I had no idea what I was getting myself into. Otherwise I probably would have never signed up. Little did I know that the "nice hike" mentioned in our trip agenda was actually a hike up the second largest peak in the Middle East. Mount Sinai is the mount in which Moses is said to have spent his 40 days and 40 nights to receive the 10 commandments. It is 7,500 feet high ...

7K and 2.5 hours - of a rocky/sandy, dark, cold, camel filled path & 700 "steps" of small steep steep steep rocks, shaking legs, and a racing heart - later I reached the top with my new insta-friend/motivator/partner in panting/hotelmate Tilde (a sweet, sweet, woman from Denmark who is interning at the embassy). We made it just in time to see the sunrise. Even through it was a hazy sunrise dulled by sand, dust, and my own hunger- it was definitely one of those "life moments".

I felt pretty proud of myself too... until I saw a group of elderly people with canes reach the top- no problemo.

The way down? Well I wasn't thinking about life then...mostly just my demise if I stepped badly on one of the 3,000 "steps" on the "stairs of redemption". At least on the way down there weren't any camels in my face.

We spent the rest of the weekend in Dahab - relaxing by the Red Sea. I've never seen clearer water. It felt SO good. Think - paradise ... with no green. Mountains, sea, and tourists everywhere. I probably should have snorkeled or diving, but I was having too much fun laying without the sound of dogs, people, or car horns.

It was really nice to have some down time and meet some people working in Cairo. Talking to people who could understand me at normal talking speed was indescribably comforting. Being back in the city isn't too bad though. I missed Khalda, the pushing, and adventures of crossing the street.

- I've been spoiled -

Last week Khalda and company brought me to an Egyptian football game. Egypt is hosting the U20 World Cup right now, and it is seriously the only thing people are talking about. So we headed to Cairo Stadium to check out the Egypt (Misr)- Paraguay game. SO. MUCH. FUN. Spirits were so high (until we lost...), everyone had painted faces, a flag and/or drum in hand, lots of chip eating, cheering, and I've never done the wave so many times. In Egypt football is life- and I could feeeeeel it. It was such a fun experience. ... that I think is going to be repeated sometime this week.

I also got to check out the Egyptian Museum. In true Egyptian nature its mostly a chaotic maze of ancient unlabeled artifacts. More like our 6th grade rendition of ancient Egypt rather than a world known museum. No matter, it was somethin'else to be able to wander around such old pieces. Some of my personal highlights were the ancient royal jewelry room, any/everything King Tut, and the mummy rooms. I made fun of Khalda for being too scared to go in the mummy rooms, but I can't lie- they were pretty freaky.

Next week I'm going to start tutoring English at St. Andrew's Refugee Services I'm pretty excited to meet some more refugees, help out, and see how another program works. In just two visits I can the staff is over their head in work, but I hope I can steal them away for a bit to get some advice and conversation.

More later, Khalda is home from work - Alhamdulillah - (a common Arabic expression that means "Thank God")

All the Love,

Jeannnnnnna

Khalda Ahmed Mohamed

Where do I even start to talk about my new roommate/friend...

Khalda : use your throat (a slight cough helps) and say hall-lee-da

Likes: Bollywood, Dancing, Chips, MiniMe, Michael Jackson, everything Sudanese, Shopping, the color Pink, Pizza, the Sunset
Dislikes: My Hair, Cats/Dogs, Camels, Egyptians/Egypt (we're trying to work on that), Stairs

Oh this woman. She is always making me take pictures of her and following it with, "So you won't forget me", but in reality I couldn't forgot her if I tried.

Khalda is 29 years old and originally from Sudan has been in Cairo for 3 years. She is living in the city as a refugee, which doesn't make her life easy here. Not helping out her situation is the fact that her heart (Mr. Anwar) lives in Des Moines, and has been for the last 4 or 5 years. But still she almost always has a smile on her face. Her ultimate goal is to make it to the US to live with Anwar in Iowa. The best way to describe Khalda is by her former jobs- a nurse and primary school teacher.

We've been clicking well.

Most apparent with a quick review of our sleeping situation is our shared amount of stubbornness. Khalda believes that because I am the guest I should sleep in her bed, and she on a mattress pad in the living room. I feel that she should be able to sleep in her own bed. So most nights one can find Khalda sleeping on the mattress pad in the living room, and I on the couch. This set up has lead to nightly 13 year old giggle sessions over our men in Iowa, some of our best English/Arabic lessons, once there were sit-ups, and a lot of movie watching (mostly a mix of Bollywood and old 90s movies). I've been learning a lot about Khalda from her reactions to American movies.

Here are some Khalda reviews (remember- MBC MAX Cairo Movie station has limited options):

2Pac the Resurrection: after a full two hours of rap, drugs, arrests, and rape charges all Khalda had to say about 2Pac was, "What a shame he never got married".
Austin Powers 2: even the mention of MiniMe can get this lady on the floor laughing... and the dancing, she loved the dancing.
Fighting Temptations: after this movie Khalda couldn't stop proclaiming her love for Beyonce, the word 'booty', and African American church choirs.

Anyway, we use the bed mostly for clothing storage and napping.

If it wasn't for our love our humor and laughing - A. I'd be home already or B. one of us would probably be seriously injured by the other. I need to record her laugh before I go home because its the definition of sweet and so dangerously contagious. Most of our laughs come during our nightly "intensive" (our normal lessons are all day/every day while we simply live and help each other out with vocab, grammar, spelling, and reading) language lessons ... usually including snacks, TV, lots of soda, pajamas, and a lot of making fun. Right now I'm helping Khalda with her reading (trying to really emphasize Past/Present/and Future). While I am working my way through the Arabic alphabet... omg it is hard. I'm not used to using my stomach help me speak nor doing crazy tricks with my throat and tongue. Needless to say, we are both struggling through each other's native tongue... but trying to have a good time doing it. Khalda is at an early intermediate level of English and doing SO WELL. Daily she is my personal translator. Sometimes I wonder if I'm teaching her at all.

I must confess- there is one thing I know I'm not teaching her... "You're welcome". Khalda has learned somewhere (I have a theory that it was The Godfather or something) that the best response to "Thank You" is "Don't mention it". Kind of normal, yes, but not when you hear Khalda's mobster/slurred version of it. I know that I will have to teach her "You're welcome", but for now I can't bring myself to end the hilarity.

More than just teaching language we've been learning a lot from each other. I am learning to dance, cook, and how to dodge cars in Cairo traffic correctly. Khalda really wants me to help her loose some kilos - we'll see how that goes. As much as I keep reminding her that 1. the gym is my idea of hell, and 2. I came to be a personal English teacher NOT trainer - she just won't loose the idea. So we'll see what happens... if anything I can use a gym for their shower (the basin bathing has been getting old and a bit awkward). I am doing my best to teach her basic things about American culture though (including a few lectures on hygiene, cleanliness, and food safety). We are both having a good time, and even when the woman frustrates me all she has to do is say, "Jeannnnna don't be mad at me" and hand me a chicken sandwich (true story) and all will be forgiven.

Khalda Khalda Khalda. It's going to be an interesting two months.

*the Picture is Khalda and our friend Rusha in Ismalia City

Dance like an Egyptian

I've been trying to mentally recap everything I've been doing in the last few days but it is a hard task when you don't know when yesterday ended and today started.

Saturday was the last day of Ramadan and Sunday marked the beginning of the Eid. So it was new PJs (a tradition I love) and a frightening amount of toy cell phones and guns (a tradition I kept my mouth shut about) for the kiddies. Sunday was filled with naps (we didn't sleep on "Eid eve"), spankin' new clothes, visiting relatives, and eating. Lots of eating. Basically all of Sunday I was lost in Arabic chatter, but during my daze of nods and smiles (when I heard my name) I was able to think a lot about the ways holidays are celebrated in the US (my simple conclusion: the same, excpet we add alcohol). Celebrating the Eid made me excited that I'll make it back to the US in time for Thanksgiving and Christmas. I feel really fortunate that I was able to take part of such a special time of the year for billions of people worldwide.

Even staying up all night on Saturday wasn't too difficult- I was on quite the culture high. Khalda, her friend Nabib, and his daughter Amira and I went to the Suez Gulf and walked around. We smoked Shisha, drank cokes, and chowed on some street food - it was some kind of hot tomato soup like liquid with beans (since then- I've fallen in love with street food; I've had a gyros, falafel, kushari, and bamboo juice).

After our relaxation by the gulf we checked out the pier (which was deafening/beautifully sounded by drums ... and techno). There were so many people hanging out, selling tea, riding bikes, and listening to the music. There were also lines and lines of decked out boats full of more rope and dangle lights than the tackiest of houses during Christmas. Nabib treated us to a ride on one, and that's where it happened- my FIRST encounter with Egyptian dancing. Oh my Lord do they dance. It was SO fun - all the drums, hips, techno, and snaps - I felt like I had my first surreal moment of culture. So when we went home, naturally I gathered all the women and children - and we danced. Frankly, I don't think I've got enough sass and sex in me to mimic Egyptian dancing (I do better walking like an Egyptian- har har), but alas, I'm trying- and in the process giving Khalda and friends a good laugh.

I saw more dancing today when on my boat ride down the Nile. Its just so fun to see everyone come alive with the music and dancing! Some of the kids started break dancing, and although I almost got kicked in the face it was definitely a highlight (and I've got a decent video). The views were amazing on the boat ride- if only the country wasn't full of liter!

Another highlight of my weekend happened after the dance lesson (remember- it's like- 3 AM now :)), I got to go to the hair salon! It was literally a hole in the wall jam packed with women. Khalda and her friend got hair removed from their faces and brows with string- once I saw tears I turned down their offer of taking a go at me. (Eventually I let them 'sting' a side burn- it wasn't too painful) I also turned down Khalda's offer to pay for me to get my hair straightened... the iron, well, it was a metal rod that sits over a flame until it touches your hair. No thank you. I'll keep my hair, even if Khalda thinks its crazy.

Oh Khalda, Khalda, Khalda... I love her. I think one of these days I'll write a entry specific to her. If it wasn't for her generosity and bubbly nature- I'd probably be home with y'all already. Things are getting better everyday. Although, we are back in Cairo now and it's size is really intimidating! I'm trying to use the Arabic I've learned more often (the whole 10 words of it) my "Thank You", "Hello", and "Water" in English need to stop coming so naturally!

I hope all is well in the States, people here ask about you often.

All the Love,

Jeanna

They Call Me "Little Stomach" and "Sugar"

Hello Everyone!

I've been having some hard times getting decent Internet connection, but all seems to be working well right now.

All my traveling went well (even thought it was very, very long). When I was getting off the airplane the man sitting next to me (from Wisconsin) asked, "Is this your first time in Egypt? [Yes] Well then... just go with the flow." It didn't take more than two mintues to realize the importance of his words. Whenever anything is hard or confusing I've been trying to remember what he said. (And thankfully- about an hour after getting to Khalda's apartment when I had dismissed the adivce already- I had Ms. Jessica Crawford online to help me out- what a blessing)

Everything is taking a lot of adjustment. It is VERY difficult living in a country where I can't communicate with anyone easily. For being a country dependent on tourism- English is NOT known. Currently, I'm in Ismailia City visiting some friends. I haven't been able to see much of this port city- but it is much less crowded than Cairo. I got to experience the bus on the way here- and that was a cultural lesson in itself. Good thing I hadn't ate much before the ride...

Khalda is the sweetest woman. Even though I'm having a hard time adjusting to the country- it has been no fault of hers. She has done anything and everything to make sure that I am safe and having a good time... and enough to eat. I've been hearing from many of her friends, "Khalda is fat. When you go back to America - you too will be fat. You will grow a stomach living with Khalda." (Ian, I'll do my best to work it off by 45).

Currently it is the holy month of Ramadan and most Muslims only eat after sunset (around 6-6:30) and before sunrise (eating around 4:30). Khalda and friends have overcome this issue by turning into owls for a month. So far every night I've gone to bed around 4:30-5 AM and woken up around 2:30 PM. Needless to say jet lag hasn't been much of a problem. I'm not sure if a majority of Muslims switch their sleep schedule like this- or if it is just Khalda and company. Today is the last day of fasting and then we move into the 3 day celebration of the Eid. I believe in the next few days my sleeping will become a little more "normal".

Even so, this country never sleeps. At all hours of the day it is common to see people running around. Need cheese at 2:30 AM? No problem. Last night as I was falling asleep I was laughing at the Roosters who much like my fathers... just didn't seem to have the sunrise crowing right- then I realized it IS 5AM. I'm the one who is off.

Because we are visiting friends I haven't done too much exploring or saving of the world ... I'm trying to take Mike's advice and let myself enjoy this period of transition and rest. (I'm catching up on my 90s TV shows).

I'm slowly learning some vocab in Arabic, it is very difficult though. Sometimes I feel that Khalda is teaching me more than I'm teaching her!! Everything is going well... I just keep reminding myself it has only been a few days and everything gets easier with time.

And now- its time to eat.

All the Love,

Jeanna

Africa, Again.

Hello All,

Whether you've: heard it via the family grapevine, been asked for travel advice, opened my the eyes to the world of refugee advocacy, provided moral support (I needed a lot to buy my ticket), given me travel advice, or have no idea what I'm even talking about- you've all helped me in this next (2 month) life step.

I'm heading to Cairo, Egypt tomorrow!!

I will be living in Cairo for two months with a Sudanese Darfur refugee to help her learn English. This opportunity came about after my internship with Lutheran Services in Iowa Refugee Cooperative. My new roommate and host, Khalda Anwar Ahmed is the fiance of a former client of LSI.

While I'm living in Cairo, Khalda will be my personal tour guide to all the countries tourist spots, as well as a teacher of Arabic, cooking, and culture. Most importantly I hope we can build a beautiful friendship. I hope to return to the United States in November with a better understanding of life as a displaced refugee, African/Middle Eastern culture, and more travel/language/teaching experience. (Then yes, it will finally be time to put that degree to use with some kind of job and/or grad school :)).

I have re-issued my Rwanda blog -- http://jeanna12.blogspot.com/ and I'll do my best to keep it updated. I encourage you all to follow my journey- in fact, I'd love it!!

I also welcome e-mails and cards!! You can e-mail me for my address and skype.

Thanks for all your support, and I hope we can keep in touch while I'm away - or when I get back!!

All the Love,