Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Murabeho

I'm beeeehind on my blogging.

Last week we had a good fix to our homesickness. We met Jodie and her son in the airport. She lives in Texas and tries to come and visit her family at least once a year. So we were kindly welcomed into the home of her sister, for a BBQ Rwanda style. It was such a nice night, and extremely relaxing. There was a lot of food and even more dancing.

This past weekend we traveled to Butare, smaller city in the southern part of the country. We were able to visit the National Museum of Rwanda, the National University of Rwanda, the biggest Catholic Cathedral, and the Murambi Genocide Memorial.

The National Museum of Rwanda was interesting and I was able to learn a lot about the history of Rwanda. There were tons of artifacts there, and they were all gorgeous.
The National University was fun to drive through as well. Before leaving I read the book “Left to Tell” which was the story of a genocide survivor, and she attended this university. During the genocide the National University was attacked and many students were killed.
We went to mass on Sunday at the Catholic Cathedral. It was interesting going to a service in all Kinyarwanda.
The Murambi Genocide Memorial... I do not think I can possibly explain the things I saw there in a blog. I still have not even been able to write about it in my journal.

This week... after being the truck for so long during the weekend all of us girls felt like dancing. So Aloys told us to check out the Kigali Business Center's nightclub. We went there on Sunday night and danced the night away. It was so fun, and I think we all needed to move around.
We've been trying to spend as much time as possible at the Orphanage. We've had a day of frisbees, another of fake tattoos, and yesterday- we got to see some amazing football skills. Turns out the kids are even better when they are playing with real balls- and not plastic bags tied together.

This might be my last blog for a while, or until I get home. I'm sorry they have been so vague lately we've had jam packed days and limited Internet access. The time here has been going so quickly, and I am both excited and devastated about arriving back in the US on Sunday.
Its going to break my heart when we have to say goodbye to the children today. Not only the children but all the people we've meet since coming here. The first day we got here, many people told us “You will never actually leave Rwanda” ... knowing that my flight to Tanzania is looming tomorrow- I'm starting to feel the reality of their words.

Throughout this trip I have seen some of the most beautiful and the most heart wrenching things of my life. The pain and suffering the people of Rwanda have gone through is impossible for me to imagine- and their strength and forgiveness amazes me every single day. I hope that I can learn from the people of Rwanda and take their strength, motivation, optimism, and willingness to work towards change into my own life.

Last Week

I promised a gushing about Gisimba ... here goes (with a “little” extra)

There are three main components of our Service-Learning Trip in Rwanda. 1. Is to experience/immerse ourselves in the culture of Rwanda. 2. Is to observe the education system in post-genocide Rwanda. 3. To start up a community service project with a Rwandan organization that can be continued throughout years to come.

I think I've made my immersion into Rwandan culture very clear. As I am unable to go one day without proclaiming my love for this tiny country at least 15 times. My latest adventure was the Man U/Cheslea football game. OHHH, do these Rwandans love their football...soccer. It was seriously all anyone would talk to us about all day Wednesday. By noon everyone in our group decided we'd cheer for Man U... mostly because we wanted to get KIE Professor John (an avid Cheslea fan) flustered. :) The game was so much fun. We watched it in the outdoor cafe/bar area of our hotel, Chez Lando. I've never seen it so packed. The evening was hours and hours of football, yelling (in Kinyarwanda and French), beer, and cramped necks. Even though towards the end of the game, Dominick was trying to get Jess and I to stop nodding off and just go to bed... I'm VERY happy I was able to hold out- and stay up for the very end (after two 15 minute overtimes and a kick off thingy – please do not judge my lack of soccer knowledge, even half way around the world I still know nothing about athletics) The end brought: crying & screaming men (both happy and sad), the removal of shirts, broken glass, jumping, dancing, singing, and forced removal of some individuals from the bar. Being a halfway-ish point in the trip- the excitement was very uplifting and very needed.

As for schools... this week we were able to visit a few more schools, but the one most dear to my heart was Fawe Girls School. They were lovely girls and soooo excited to see a group of women from the States. They believed (wrongly) that we knew all the answers to all their questions: about University, boys, and life in general. We did our best to answer all the questions – hopefully no young minds were ruined by our ways. We were welcomed with open arms into their school, and everyone was so kind. The school specializes in mathematics and science, but I was able to sit in on both a French and Kinyarwanda class.

We were also able to have a brief meeting with the Minister of Education. She too was a very nice woman. We were so grateful that she was able to talk to us between meetings. She really does have a strong vision, and an even larger sense of hope for the future of education in Rwanda. Currently the main issues that need to be tackled are those of equal education, increased enrollment in secondary schools, anglophone/francophone issues, etc. Oh, and she told me I should skip out on the Peace Corps and she'd get me a job. Too bad teaching isn't my thing.
Then there is Gisimba. We were hooked up with Gisimba orphanage through Lisa Holmes from Washington State University. She did work at Gisimba along with Dominick a Rwandan student (who has been a great help and friend to our group as well) and recommended we do our service work there.

Gisimba orphanage is family run organization, and was started in the home. There are currently over 180 children ranging in age from about 2-22. Most of these children have lost parents due to the genocide, HIV/AIDS and disease, poverty, or abandonment. Ildefonse (so fun to say) is the current patron, and lives at the orphanage with the children. He is a superbly wonderful man, and Papa to more children than I think any of us could handle. There are also 'Mothers' who work with and care for the children, a social worker, and cooks.

This orphanage also has quite the past- Damas Gisimba, the current Legal Representative (owner) hid over 400 people in one building of his orphanage during the 1994 genocide. In years after the genocide he was named One of the Seven Heros of the Rwandan Genocide. He is a very quiet, caring man and I am truly honored to have met him. I cannot even imagine the things he did, and I am excited to share his story.

Even though our group tried to do research on the orphanage before arriving in Kigali, we were unable to find any information on this fascinating place. We had no idea the resources that were lacking or available. So, when we were trying to come up with some sort of community service project with the orphanage that could be both beneficial to them, as well as on-going... we decided that we would create a website for them. Both the Patron and Legal Representative were very excited about the idea, so we've all been busy interviewing, touring, and taking pictures around the orphanage. It is our hope that the website can be the first step in building a long lasting relationship with Gisimba. As well as being beneficial to both parties, and outside individuals, companies, donors, etc.

Its hard to put in words the heartbreaking/heartwarming feelings of Gisimba. The BEAUTIFUL children, the dedicated staff, dirty little Mosquito Stadium, and ol' Simba the dog.
Do not be surprised if I get off the airplane in Minneapolis with a child in my arms. I want to take them all home with me.

I am not doing ANYTHING justice in this blog, but I'm trying my best. My mind is just always all over the place processing, seeing, sensing to relay anything back to you.

[Abrupt End.]
I Miss.
Lots of Love.
PS: Has anyone found me a job in Ames for when I return? :)

Monday, May 19, 2008

Muzungu's In the Mist

On average it takes us about an hour and a half to get any food around here, and just as I was warned the Internet really doesn't always work, but "Hakuna Matata" (it REALLY DOES mean "No Worries"). I hope you haven't all missed me too much during this week of limited communication. :)

Since last Tuesday we have visited:

The Gisimba Orphanage:

I saved this section for last, as my heart is filled with love for Gisimba. But now it is time for dinner. So I will have to write later about this wonderful place.

The Gisimba Nursery School:

Unlike in the States, there is very little daycare in Rwanda. So many times, when families can afford it, they send their children to nursery school. The kids are typically 3-6 years old. We were able to visit the nursery school located at Gisimba Orphanage. The school is for both orphans and children in the community.
Jess and I were put in charge of a classroom for two min. by the time the teacher was present again- we had: a handful of children running outside, two children writing on the chalkboard, no one sitting, nearly all the kids sitting on top of their desks, every child screaming... all but one, the one who was crying in the corner. The teacher just laughed.
We all were more successful at recess, when all of us had a wonderful time playing with the kids.

The Kigali Institute of Education (KIE):

This is one of the biggest Universities in Rwanda, we didn't get to have much interaction with the students because they were taking exams. But it was a beautiful campus. We are going there a few more times in the next few weeks.

Green Hills Academy:

Is a nursery- secondary school run by a Canadian woman and her husband. It is in the top three schools in Rwanda. Its very prestigious and a lot is expected of the students. Our group was split and given tours by Mimi and Tony, the Head Girl and Boy. They were both great guides and knowledge gained was great on both ends. (The food there was good too). For about two hours in the afternoon, we were all put into different classrooms. I was with 3 year olds. There was a lot of snot, crying, confusion, and "Teacher Jeanna! Teacher Jeanna!" ... but they were cute. And I do still think so even though I think after my time with them, is the most tired I've been this whole trip.

Dominick's Secondary School (I cannot remember the name):

It was really interesting going to this school because there were so many similarities between high schools in the US and their secondary school. The only difference was that our schools have more "stuff". Jess and I went in front of the class, it was mostly students who have 1-2 years left until University or graduation. They had a lot of great questions about universities in the US and our experienecs at ISU and in high school. Oh, and they really wanted to know who I was going to vote for.
If I ever want to find a Rwandan hubbie- this is where I need to go back to. As I seemed to have picked up an admirerer somehow. He begged that I never forget him, and called Dominick soon after we left to tell him, "Wish her a safe trip, and ask her never to forget me" ... I do not remember his name. The story is pretty funny/cute, remind me to relay when I return.

Kinigi:

This city is about two hours of Kigali, its much colder when you're closer to the moon ;) . The view just outside of our hotel room were green hills and huge volcanoes.
Kinigi is home also to the Rain forest where the gorillas live. With D as our guide, Peter as our porter, and two mysterious guys with guns as our guards... After a three hour trek, uphill, in the rain forest (I'll admit, I fell once- in the mud. AND I had a few lovely minutes of ants - biting ones- in my pants) I was able to see one of the most beautiful things I've ever seen- Gorillas. So, the animal itself maybe not the best looking, but the way they live is extremely interesting to watch.
They way that they play, and use their hands and feet. The way they communicate... it is shockingly human like. We got to watch them for about an hour. During that time the Hirwa group was snacking and getting ready for 'nap time'. We were lucky enough to see the group that has five babies! Ohmygoodnesscute.
Thankfully, some unknown but wonderful people cleaned my shoes for 500 Francs or 1 US dollar- they are cleaner then they were when I packed them. My white backpack maybe permanently brown and I may never get over my new fear of ants- but I can now say I am one of the few people who has seen (up close and personal) 12 of the 300-400 gorillas left in the world.

Gisenyi/Lake Kivu:

Paradise is only two hours and one loooong bumpy, pot hole filled road away from the Gorillas. Aloys* so kindly took us to the town of Gisenyi after we "wet ones" ourselves apres les gorillas. Gisenyi is home to the Primus beer plant, Lake Kivu, and the Congo boarder in the distance. We were spoiled and were able to relax all of Sunday. I successfully got sun burnt through two applications of sunscreen. (SPF 30 m'dears). But I'll take the newly appearing freckles and red nose with a smile as they remind me of my day on the beach and two nights of falling asleep to the sound of waves crashing into the shore.
OH! and after a nice dinner Aloys drove us to the nearby 'airport' and we were able to see a 'glowing' volcano. Its actually located in the Congo, it hasn't errupted since 2005, but you can see the red in the sky.

A rural primary school:

Rwanda claims that their education is equal throughout the country. It has not taken long to see that is not true. One our way back to Kigali this morning we stopped by a rural primary school. By the way, when I say "stopped by" I mean, we drove up the steepest, most narrow road I've ever encountered with cliffs of green and lakes on both sides. (The Plum City snowmobile path doesn't even compare to this mess).
The kids were beautiful. Although there is always the barrier of trying to communicate with mixes of messy French, Kinyarwanda, and English- a smile means the same in each language. Like in the other schools we were able to pair up and sit in on different classrooms. The P3 (about the same as 3-4 grade) students were learning "In Front of", "Behind of", "In", "In Between", etc.
After we presented the school with some gifts of books, pens, pencils, etc, the kids danced for us. Oh, they danced and they danced. ( I cannot wait to come home and show you the videos).

We've also been fortunate enough to have meals with people such as:
Robin, a women from the US who is opening a secondary school in Rwanda.
Craig, my new BFF who works for Joint Aid Management helping bring awareness of AIDS, nutrition, orphans, and women's rights in African countries.

... Only my memories and my journal can remember all the other little ways in which my five senses have experienced Rwanda. I am in love with a country. Its been hard to process everything, because are on constatnly on the go... but in the last week, everyday has brought so many wonderful experiences, I fear that soon my heart, my brain, and my body are going to fill up with too much... too much, I don't know, happiness, kindness, love, growth, knowledge ...
I hope all is well in the States. Remember to keep appreciating the litle things.
Love Love Love.

* In addition to Aloys' previous duties, he is also: our money exchanger, our phone card buyer, our alarm clock, the pot hole/speed bump avoider, reservation maker, our French/Kinyarwanda teacher, our personal "hurry up with the food" man, body guard, and according to Leah our "Faithful Friend" (I feel as if this list needs to be a reappearing segment in my blog as every day this man finds more and more ways to save us)

Tuesday, May 13, 2008

Is this Sweet?

I feel like we have been in Africa for weeks.

Every time I blink there is something new to see, to hear, to smell. There are always more people smiling, saying hello, more thumbs up, and more waving. We are constantly meeting new people, and eating new foods. As a group, we are continuously growing closer. To pack so many experiences/emotions/sights etc into one day is extremely tiring, and sometimes hard (not to mention like six flags, inside jokes already...), but I cannot imagine having it go any other way.

Its after 1 am already, so I feel as if I am all over the place. Tired. Unable to type/spell well. And wondering how on Earth my mind and my heart are going to find more room for Rwanda. It has been 2 days here, and already I cannot imagine my life without this experience.

Today we meet our driver/guide Aloys. Although, it must be noted he is also our translator, our friend, our door opener, our window opener, our teacher, our question taker, our lunch/dinner mate, our business man, and most importantly he is the man who saves us from the most dangerous threat in Rwanda... traffic.

Aloys took us on a tour of the city and showed us both the affluent and poor communities, he somehow got us into the soccer stadium, and showed us important hospitals, schools, and government buildings.

I had seen a sign for a Women's Organization and made a comment about wanting to work there. Before I knew it there were not only jokes of me picking up an application, but a big Land Rover being turned around and driven down what was called a road in Rwanda, a washed out hiking path in the states. With a little broken French and the amazing Aloys we were granted permission to have a tour of the Rwandan Women's Network. It was AMAZING. It is a program designed to help women who lost their husbands to the genocide (to prison or death), have HIV AIDS, or cannot afford fees for school. I could talk about their program for pages, but I won't. They were beautiful. The program amazed me, and I am completely in awe over the measures Rwanda is taking to empower its women.

Another wonderful man we have been so lucky to meet is John Musemakweri, an ISU alum and Rwandan native. He currently works for the UN as the head of sustainable livelihoods. He has been a great help to us, and a wonderful dinner/lunch mate. He has one of the most amazing smiles you will ever see, and a great sense of humor. Today after our lunch together (which was at Bourbon Coffee- ran by a random American we meet in the airport) John took us to the UN where were able to meet some of his cowokers and talk to the head of UNV (UN Volunteers). He also took us to a local resturant that he enjoys where we gorged on goat, chicken, chips (french fries), and fried bananas. We drank a plethora of coke and Primus: a Rwandan beer *Parents: I swear, they told us it was illegal to only drink coke at the resturant. It was a dinner with plently of food, conversation, and laughter.

One of the most moving parts of today was when we went to the Genocide Museum. Home of 15 mass graves holding about 258,000 bodies, only 200,000 have been identified. (Note that each body has its own casket) the museum also has artifacts, stories, pictures, videos, and imformation galore. I only wish that I could write in words the emotions I felt. It is truely impossible to relay back to you the things I felt, and my reactions to the words, the pictures, the remains, the gardens, ... It was a great learning experience. I am amazed at the growth of Rwanda in the last 14 years. The strength the country's people have.

It was a quite drive home. But alas, we were able to see true beauty afterwards. When we meet Dominick (for the second time) and went with him to the Gisimba Orphanage where we will be doing our work. We were able to meet some of the children, their "mother", and the patron. They were amazing children, and so excited to see us. I cannot wait to go back tomorrow. Dominick too, is an amazing person who we have been working with since the start of our trip. He is a student, preparing to go to University, to study Computer Engineering. Although, he already has a job with one of the greatest IT companies in Rwanda. He has been great at answering all of our questions, and very fun to be around.

I only wish that I could send everyone my memories.
My words and my pictures do not even begin to describe this experience. Already I feel like I am traveling with a group of my greatest friends, and meeting Rwandans I would to stay in contact with forever. I am overwhelmed with the kindness that I constantly surrounded by.

All the Love,

Jeanna