Dance like an Egyptian

I've been trying to mentally recap everything I've been doing in the last few days but it is a hard task when you don't know when yesterday ended and today started.

Saturday was the last day of Ramadan and Sunday marked the beginning of the Eid. So it was new PJs (a tradition I love) and a frightening amount of toy cell phones and guns (a tradition I kept my mouth shut about) for the kiddies. Sunday was filled with naps (we didn't sleep on "Eid eve"), spankin' new clothes, visiting relatives, and eating. Lots of eating. Basically all of Sunday I was lost in Arabic chatter, but during my daze of nods and smiles (when I heard my name) I was able to think a lot about the ways holidays are celebrated in the US (my simple conclusion: the same, excpet we add alcohol). Celebrating the Eid made me excited that I'll make it back to the US in time for Thanksgiving and Christmas. I feel really fortunate that I was able to take part of such a special time of the year for billions of people worldwide.

Even staying up all night on Saturday wasn't too difficult- I was on quite the culture high. Khalda, her friend Nabib, and his daughter Amira and I went to the Suez Gulf and walked around. We smoked Shisha, drank cokes, and chowed on some street food - it was some kind of hot tomato soup like liquid with beans (since then- I've fallen in love with street food; I've had a gyros, falafel, kushari, and bamboo juice).

After our relaxation by the gulf we checked out the pier (which was deafening/beautifully sounded by drums ... and techno). There were so many people hanging out, selling tea, riding bikes, and listening to the music. There were also lines and lines of decked out boats full of more rope and dangle lights than the tackiest of houses during Christmas. Nabib treated us to a ride on one, and that's where it happened- my FIRST encounter with Egyptian dancing. Oh my Lord do they dance. It was SO fun - all the drums, hips, techno, and snaps - I felt like I had my first surreal moment of culture. So when we went home, naturally I gathered all the women and children - and we danced. Frankly, I don't think I've got enough sass and sex in me to mimic Egyptian dancing (I do better walking like an Egyptian- har har), but alas, I'm trying- and in the process giving Khalda and friends a good laugh.

I saw more dancing today when on my boat ride down the Nile. Its just so fun to see everyone come alive with the music and dancing! Some of the kids started break dancing, and although I almost got kicked in the face it was definitely a highlight (and I've got a decent video). The views were amazing on the boat ride- if only the country wasn't full of liter!

Another highlight of my weekend happened after the dance lesson (remember- it's like- 3 AM now :)), I got to go to the hair salon! It was literally a hole in the wall jam packed with women. Khalda and her friend got hair removed from their faces and brows with string- once I saw tears I turned down their offer of taking a go at me. (Eventually I let them 'sting' a side burn- it wasn't too painful) I also turned down Khalda's offer to pay for me to get my hair straightened... the iron, well, it was a metal rod that sits over a flame until it touches your hair. No thank you. I'll keep my hair, even if Khalda thinks its crazy.

Oh Khalda, Khalda, Khalda... I love her. I think one of these days I'll write a entry specific to her. If it wasn't for her generosity and bubbly nature- I'd probably be home with y'all already. Things are getting better everyday. Although, we are back in Cairo now and it's size is really intimidating! I'm trying to use the Arabic I've learned more often (the whole 10 words of it) my "Thank You", "Hello", and "Water" in English need to stop coming so naturally!

I hope all is well in the States, people here ask about you often.

All the Love,

Jeanna

They Call Me "Little Stomach" and "Sugar"

Hello Everyone!

I've been having some hard times getting decent Internet connection, but all seems to be working well right now.

All my traveling went well (even thought it was very, very long). When I was getting off the airplane the man sitting next to me (from Wisconsin) asked, "Is this your first time in Egypt? [Yes] Well then... just go with the flow." It didn't take more than two mintues to realize the importance of his words. Whenever anything is hard or confusing I've been trying to remember what he said. (And thankfully- about an hour after getting to Khalda's apartment when I had dismissed the adivce already- I had Ms. Jessica Crawford online to help me out- what a blessing)

Everything is taking a lot of adjustment. It is VERY difficult living in a country where I can't communicate with anyone easily. For being a country dependent on tourism- English is NOT known. Currently, I'm in Ismailia City visiting some friends. I haven't been able to see much of this port city- but it is much less crowded than Cairo. I got to experience the bus on the way here- and that was a cultural lesson in itself. Good thing I hadn't ate much before the ride...

Khalda is the sweetest woman. Even though I'm having a hard time adjusting to the country- it has been no fault of hers. She has done anything and everything to make sure that I am safe and having a good time... and enough to eat. I've been hearing from many of her friends, "Khalda is fat. When you go back to America - you too will be fat. You will grow a stomach living with Khalda." (Ian, I'll do my best to work it off by 45).

Currently it is the holy month of Ramadan and most Muslims only eat after sunset (around 6-6:30) and before sunrise (eating around 4:30). Khalda and friends have overcome this issue by turning into owls for a month. So far every night I've gone to bed around 4:30-5 AM and woken up around 2:30 PM. Needless to say jet lag hasn't been much of a problem. I'm not sure if a majority of Muslims switch their sleep schedule like this- or if it is just Khalda and company. Today is the last day of fasting and then we move into the 3 day celebration of the Eid. I believe in the next few days my sleeping will become a little more "normal".

Even so, this country never sleeps. At all hours of the day it is common to see people running around. Need cheese at 2:30 AM? No problem. Last night as I was falling asleep I was laughing at the Roosters who much like my fathers... just didn't seem to have the sunrise crowing right- then I realized it IS 5AM. I'm the one who is off.

Because we are visiting friends I haven't done too much exploring or saving of the world ... I'm trying to take Mike's advice and let myself enjoy this period of transition and rest. (I'm catching up on my 90s TV shows).

I'm slowly learning some vocab in Arabic, it is very difficult though. Sometimes I feel that Khalda is teaching me more than I'm teaching her!! Everything is going well... I just keep reminding myself it has only been a few days and everything gets easier with time.

And now- its time to eat.

All the Love,

Jeanna

Africa, Again.

Hello All,

Whether you've: heard it via the family grapevine, been asked for travel advice, opened my the eyes to the world of refugee advocacy, provided moral support (I needed a lot to buy my ticket), given me travel advice, or have no idea what I'm even talking about- you've all helped me in this next (2 month) life step.

I'm heading to Cairo, Egypt tomorrow!!

I will be living in Cairo for two months with a Sudanese Darfur refugee to help her learn English. This opportunity came about after my internship with Lutheran Services in Iowa Refugee Cooperative. My new roommate and host, Khalda Anwar Ahmed is the fiance of a former client of LSI.

While I'm living in Cairo, Khalda will be my personal tour guide to all the countries tourist spots, as well as a teacher of Arabic, cooking, and culture. Most importantly I hope we can build a beautiful friendship. I hope to return to the United States in November with a better understanding of life as a displaced refugee, African/Middle Eastern culture, and more travel/language/teaching experience. (Then yes, it will finally be time to put that degree to use with some kind of job and/or grad school :)).

I have re-issued my Rwanda blog -- http://jeanna12.blogspot.com/ and I'll do my best to keep it updated. I encourage you all to follow my journey- in fact, I'd love it!!

I also welcome e-mails and cards!! You can e-mail me for my address and skype.

Thanks for all your support, and I hope we can keep in touch while I'm away - or when I get back!!

All the Love,