Turquoise

 

I haven't heard from Khalda yet, but the woman has been adding pictures to facebook. So, I'm assuming she's okay. Drives me crazy, that one.

Happy to see she's okay, though - & looking beautiful.

Confused.

Just thought I'd update everyone, I've heard from Anwar (Khalda's Hubbie), sadly, he didn't bring me the news I was hoping for...

Hello Jeanna
I have been trying to call her but I wouldn't be able. The situation is getting worse. I don't know what I'm going to do. I'm just totally confuse. she has another phone number **-***-***-**** you may try it. Thank you Jeanna for asking about Khalda and Baby Ahmed. 

---
& while tensions in Egypt have been getting worse I'm still confident Khalda and little Ahmed are doing just fine. Like I told a friend last night, I'm sure she's off muttering, "I told you so, I told you so - Egyptians are crazy."

"happyiest moment"

I probably over-use my 23 year old limit of omg, o.m.g., oh. ma. ga., so on & so forth. BUT THIS, this is a top OMG moment.

Due to my space travel a few weeks ago - I failed to update my lovely blog readers about some of the best news (or the best news) I've heard in weeks, months, maybe even the last year (that is - after gettin' hired).

Khalda had her baby*!!
Anwar sent me an e-mail titled, "you invited to chair our happyiest moment". Wasn't expecting ... "As I told you the doctor told us the baby is girl, but surprisingly the baby is boy." It looks like Sarah Jeanna is out of the name game, but oh well, Ahmed Anwar probably sounds better anyway.

Immediately I splurged on some Skype minutes & called my sister up! Thinking I was being sneaky ... Khalda didn't think twice about it (note, we haven't heard each others voices in over a year) she just goes, "Oh HI. You hear the news? Jeanna - I SOOOO happy."

We chit chatted for about 10 minutes & I can't even begin to explain how happy it made me. Hearing her voice/laugh was meaningful enough, but to be able to share in such a happy moment. BEAMING. SMILING. GLOWING.That's all I've got, I can't form sentences.

Welcome to the world baby Ahmed. You've got yourself an amazing mum, & an excited American Auntie.

PS: I keep pestering the woman for pictures, & she keeps reminding me that I should cool it- she just had a baby. She wins. Updates to come. xoxo

*Didn't remember she was preggers? No problem - here's a reminder.

NEED THIS.

popcorn

Do you ever have those moments when memories rush in and consume your thoughts? In my experience these moments are typically onset by a song, photo, or place. But, last night, I closed my eyes to sleep and I felt like I was back in Roxy-Cairo. I wasn't dreaming and I obviously wasn't actually there, but I had the most realistic and slightly overwhelming memory:

I was sitting on Khalda's couch. I could hear her clanking in the kitchen and the normal chaos of Cairo streets (our porch doors were always open). Some 90s American movie was playing on the TV and I was talking to my mom on the computer. I smelt oil. & then Khalda yelled out from the kitchen, very excitedly, "Jeanna! I have surprise for you" & came into the living room carrying a heaping bowl of home-popped popcorn. I said rushed goodbyes and I love yous to my mom, thanked Khalda over and over - and together we sat happily eating our popcorn, watching some stupid movie. 

It may seem like a small moment. & I guess it was. But you see, a few days earlier Khalda and I discovered a new popcorn stand outside our metro stop. We instantly became frequent customers. I told her it reminded me of home. She felt the same way. & then, she surprised me with popcorn on some boring afternoon. Isn't that sweet? I miss her. 

"say hi for avery body in u.s.a"

My days are brightened when I hear from Khalda.

& today, she had the best news of all: her and Anwar are expecting!

Khalda is absolutely wonderful with children and I could not be happier for her.

Now, I just need to refresh her memory of late night chats in which I actually convinced her Jeanna makes a gorgeous middle name...

Something to love today: head over heels, to the moon and back love.

Veil Me

Today's top story on the BBC website is, "France MPs' report backs Muslim face veil ban: A French Parliamentary committee has recommended a partial ban on women wearing Islamic face veils." Should this ban get passed face covering veils will no longer be allowed in, "hospitals, schools, government offices and on public transport."

BBC article:( http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/europe/8480161.stm)

First off... I cannot say that I understand everything (the personal, the political, the religious, the feminist, the submission, the pressure, the comfort, etc.) about veiling. I cannot say I have a background on French policy, nor the Koran. I cannot even say that I have a clear opinion on the matter.

But here is what I CAN say:

-I've seen the the negative treatment of veiled women in United States hospitals, airports, and city streets. Smart, kind, beautiful women, who are all wonderful mothers, daughters, and friends.
-I've lived with a woman who chooses to veil for the respect of her parents, community members, and mostly, herself and her God.
-I've veiled my own body out of respect and fun (and only once because of pressure).
-Most of the women with whom I've been in contact have had the choice to veil or not. On the contrary, I also realize that not all women in the world are allowed to choose and that, is a serious issue needing attention.

-I know that there are different types of veils ranging from popular hijabs to more full covering niqabs and burkas.
-I believe that Vogue could have a hay-day with the spunk, colors, patterns, and creativity of female Islamic fashion. (Aesthetically, I was never let down on the women's Metro cart in Cairo).
-I know that early Christian women veiled (including the Virgin Mary).
-In my experience, most women do not veil in their own homes around close family and friends (both male and female) that they love and trust.

My dear friend Khalda, beautiful with and without her veil. Always blue, pink, or floral.

In my opinion, there is nothing to be scared of - if only we can respect a women's personal decisions, reexamine our ideas on beauty, and fear not things we do not understand.

Something to love today: personal style.

Lee-Da

Mouse Trap

OhNo.

Khalda is scared of cats and I of mice.

Our apartment - has a problem.

Hot Pink Bow Tie

Apparently, I'm not the only one in the apartment that impulse buys. Welcome to the daily life of Khalda and Jeanna:

[Khalda walks in the apartment]
K: Look what I got for my cousin's kids! [Holds up a black plastic bag]
J: Khalda, what is INSIDE the bag.
K: I'm too scared to get it out. AHHH I'm way too scared. [With one finger she pulls out this nasty furry toy cat that I scoffed at yesterday on the street] AHHHHH. I GOT IT!
J: OHMYGOD [Laughing hysterically]
K: [Turns on the beast - which prompts its eyes to turn neon green, start screaming like a dying animal, wagging its tail, and walking around the room] I'm so scared.
J: If you think it is so scary, why did you buy it?
K: I don't know, the fur is nice. [Silence - except for the demon-cat] But Jeanna, I'm really scared. Turn it off.
J: Plllllllease Khalda, don't forget to say please.

Baby, It's Cold Outside

Signs of Winter in Cairo:

The police men have changed from their white uniforms to black.
80 degree weather during the day and 'cold' at night.
It rained for about two minutes today, this only happens a handful of times a year.
Khalda wears sweat pants to bed now.
Street vendors have full supplies of fuzzy sweaters, mittens, wool socks, and hats.
Leather jackets - everywhere. Especially pleasant in the hot Metros.
While everyone else is shivering, I feel great!

Minnesota is going kill me.

We Packed Apples and Water

OMG I saw the pyramids.

I could have sat at the edge of the Great Pyramid for hours soaking in all the people (there is a true sense of excitement and wonder illuminating from everyone), the camels/horses/donkeys- dressed in their best, children trying to sell postcards to every 'madam and sir', the "camel ride? camel ride? low price!" guys, history, tourist police (mostly just around for picture taking), the desert, a mild eeriness, Giza Cairo skyline, the overall greatness-vastness of the pyramids/Sphinx. It's been days since I've been there and I still cannot even start to wrap my mind around how those beasts were made.

Khalda and her friend Abdullah made sure that I had the ultimate pyramids experience. They wouldn't let me leave the Khafre's Valley Tomb until I dropped a coin in the 'good luck' well. They made sure we took horrible tourist photos (pushing the pyramids, petting the Sphinx). And I just had to ride a camel. That ended up being quite the adventure- ending in separation from my friends, a lot of yelling, an angry camel man, a trip to the tourist police, and a few tears - ahh, but most importantly... a lot of really great pictures. Because come on, me on a camel ... that is just hilarious. Oh, and Mother- I didn't fall off, even though I know you would have loved that.

I got the best sauna experience of my life when I went inside one of the Queen's Pyramid's and the Great Pyramid. Let me repeat - I WENT INSIDE two pyramids. To do this is not an easy experience nor for the claustrophobic. It is done by crouching down really low in a tight space, then climbing (in the Queen's Pyramid you descend) a ridiculous number of steep metal rods, holding on tightly to wooden planks while you stare at the ass in front of you, and like I said- it is hot in there. It is all worth the 50 LEs- 10USD (and in my case two days of sore legs) in those moments where I overcame the fear of crashing and looked up and around at the interior walls of the pyramid.

All around the day was simply FUN. Khalda, Abdullah and I had such a good time wandering around, taking a break in the air conditioned Solar Boat Museum, trying to remember what we've learned about ancient Egypt, laughing, taking pictures, and people watching. At the end of it all- we chowed down on some falafel and passed out on the metro.

I have seen the sunset at the Giza pryamids. Sometimes, I don't know what I've done to deserve experiences like these...

June 12th Madness

Khalda and I just discovered we have the same birthday.

We even dug out the ol' birth certificate to confirm. Once I master my Arabic numbers- I'm checking again.

I think this means we have to throw a joint birthday party... in October or November.

MISR! Mountian! Mummies!

Okay, well.... I've been up a mountain and back.

This weekend (the weekend here is Friday/Saturday) Khalda and Anwar treated me a nice vacation on the Sinai Coast. I went with a tour bus of about 20 people - a wonderful mix of Americans, Europeans, and Egyptians, etc. Mostly comprising of students, interns, journalists, volunteers, human rights activists - ma people! It was utterly exhausting and relaxing at the same time.

We drove all night to arrive at Mount Sinai around 3AM and started our trek. Thank God I had no idea what I was getting myself into. Otherwise I probably would have never signed up. Little did I know that the "nice hike" mentioned in our trip agenda was actually a hike up the second largest peak in the Middle East. Mount Sinai is the mount in which Moses is said to have spent his 40 days and 40 nights to receive the 10 commandments. It is 7,500 feet high ...

7K and 2.5 hours - of a rocky/sandy, dark, cold, camel filled path & 700 "steps" of small steep steep steep rocks, shaking legs, and a racing heart - later I reached the top with my new insta-friend/motivator/partner in panting/hotelmate Tilde (a sweet, sweet, woman from Denmark who is interning at the embassy). We made it just in time to see the sunrise. Even through it was a hazy sunrise dulled by sand, dust, and my own hunger- it was definitely one of those "life moments".

I felt pretty proud of myself too... until I saw a group of elderly people with canes reach the top- no problemo.

The way down? Well I wasn't thinking about life then...mostly just my demise if I stepped badly on one of the 3,000 "steps" on the "stairs of redemption". At least on the way down there weren't any camels in my face.

We spent the rest of the weekend in Dahab - relaxing by the Red Sea. I've never seen clearer water. It felt SO good. Think - paradise ... with no green. Mountains, sea, and tourists everywhere. I probably should have snorkeled or diving, but I was having too much fun laying without the sound of dogs, people, or car horns.

It was really nice to have some down time and meet some people working in Cairo. Talking to people who could understand me at normal talking speed was indescribably comforting. Being back in the city isn't too bad though. I missed Khalda, the pushing, and adventures of crossing the street.

- I've been spoiled -

Last week Khalda and company brought me to an Egyptian football game. Egypt is hosting the U20 World Cup right now, and it is seriously the only thing people are talking about. So we headed to Cairo Stadium to check out the Egypt (Misr)- Paraguay game. SO. MUCH. FUN. Spirits were so high (until we lost...), everyone had painted faces, a flag and/or drum in hand, lots of chip eating, cheering, and I've never done the wave so many times. In Egypt football is life- and I could feeeeeel it. It was such a fun experience. ... that I think is going to be repeated sometime this week.

I also got to check out the Egyptian Museum. In true Egyptian nature its mostly a chaotic maze of ancient unlabeled artifacts. More like our 6th grade rendition of ancient Egypt rather than a world known museum. No matter, it was somethin'else to be able to wander around such old pieces. Some of my personal highlights were the ancient royal jewelry room, any/everything King Tut, and the mummy rooms. I made fun of Khalda for being too scared to go in the mummy rooms, but I can't lie- they were pretty freaky.

Next week I'm going to start tutoring English at St. Andrew's Refugee Services I'm pretty excited to meet some more refugees, help out, and see how another program works. In just two visits I can the staff is over their head in work, but I hope I can steal them away for a bit to get some advice and conversation.

More later, Khalda is home from work - Alhamdulillah - (a common Arabic expression that means "Thank God")

All the Love,

Jeannnnnnna

Khalda Ahmed Mohamed

Where do I even start to talk about my new roommate/friend...

Khalda : use your throat (a slight cough helps) and say hall-lee-da

Likes: Bollywood, Dancing, Chips, MiniMe, Michael Jackson, everything Sudanese, Shopping, the color Pink, Pizza, the Sunset
Dislikes: My Hair, Cats/Dogs, Camels, Egyptians/Egypt (we're trying to work on that), Stairs

Oh this woman. She is always making me take pictures of her and following it with, "So you won't forget me", but in reality I couldn't forgot her if I tried.

Khalda is 29 years old and originally from Sudan has been in Cairo for 3 years. She is living in the city as a refugee, which doesn't make her life easy here. Not helping out her situation is the fact that her heart (Mr. Anwar) lives in Des Moines, and has been for the last 4 or 5 years. But still she almost always has a smile on her face. Her ultimate goal is to make it to the US to live with Anwar in Iowa. The best way to describe Khalda is by her former jobs- a nurse and primary school teacher.

We've been clicking well.

Most apparent with a quick review of our sleeping situation is our shared amount of stubbornness. Khalda believes that because I am the guest I should sleep in her bed, and she on a mattress pad in the living room. I feel that she should be able to sleep in her own bed. So most nights one can find Khalda sleeping on the mattress pad in the living room, and I on the couch. This set up has lead to nightly 13 year old giggle sessions over our men in Iowa, some of our best English/Arabic lessons, once there were sit-ups, and a lot of movie watching (mostly a mix of Bollywood and old 90s movies). I've been learning a lot about Khalda from her reactions to American movies.

Here are some Khalda reviews (remember- MBC MAX Cairo Movie station has limited options):

2Pac the Resurrection: after a full two hours of rap, drugs, arrests, and rape charges all Khalda had to say about 2Pac was, "What a shame he never got married".
Austin Powers 2: even the mention of MiniMe can get this lady on the floor laughing... and the dancing, she loved the dancing.
Fighting Temptations: after this movie Khalda couldn't stop proclaiming her love for Beyonce, the word 'booty', and African American church choirs.

Anyway, we use the bed mostly for clothing storage and napping.

If it wasn't for our love our humor and laughing - A. I'd be home already or B. one of us would probably be seriously injured by the other. I need to record her laugh before I go home because its the definition of sweet and so dangerously contagious. Most of our laughs come during our nightly "intensive" (our normal lessons are all day/every day while we simply live and help each other out with vocab, grammar, spelling, and reading) language lessons ... usually including snacks, TV, lots of soda, pajamas, and a lot of making fun. Right now I'm helping Khalda with her reading (trying to really emphasize Past/Present/and Future). While I am working my way through the Arabic alphabet... omg it is hard. I'm not used to using my stomach help me speak nor doing crazy tricks with my throat and tongue. Needless to say, we are both struggling through each other's native tongue... but trying to have a good time doing it. Khalda is at an early intermediate level of English and doing SO WELL. Daily she is my personal translator. Sometimes I wonder if I'm teaching her at all.

I must confess- there is one thing I know I'm not teaching her... "You're welcome". Khalda has learned somewhere (I have a theory that it was The Godfather or something) that the best response to "Thank You" is "Don't mention it". Kind of normal, yes, but not when you hear Khalda's mobster/slurred version of it. I know that I will have to teach her "You're welcome", but for now I can't bring myself to end the hilarity.

More than just teaching language we've been learning a lot from each other. I am learning to dance, cook, and how to dodge cars in Cairo traffic correctly. Khalda really wants me to help her loose some kilos - we'll see how that goes. As much as I keep reminding her that 1. the gym is my idea of hell, and 2. I came to be a personal English teacher NOT trainer - she just won't loose the idea. So we'll see what happens... if anything I can use a gym for their shower (the basin bathing has been getting old and a bit awkward). I am doing my best to teach her basic things about American culture though (including a few lectures on hygiene, cleanliness, and food safety). We are both having a good time, and even when the woman frustrates me all she has to do is say, "Jeannnnna don't be mad at me" and hand me a chicken sandwich (true story) and all will be forgiven.

Khalda Khalda Khalda. It's going to be an interesting two months.

*the Picture is Khalda and our friend Rusha in Ismalia City

Dance like an Egyptian

I've been trying to mentally recap everything I've been doing in the last few days but it is a hard task when you don't know when yesterday ended and today started.

Saturday was the last day of Ramadan and Sunday marked the beginning of the Eid. So it was new PJs (a tradition I love) and a frightening amount of toy cell phones and guns (a tradition I kept my mouth shut about) for the kiddies. Sunday was filled with naps (we didn't sleep on "Eid eve"), spankin' new clothes, visiting relatives, and eating. Lots of eating. Basically all of Sunday I was lost in Arabic chatter, but during my daze of nods and smiles (when I heard my name) I was able to think a lot about the ways holidays are celebrated in the US (my simple conclusion: the same, excpet we add alcohol). Celebrating the Eid made me excited that I'll make it back to the US in time for Thanksgiving and Christmas. I feel really fortunate that I was able to take part of such a special time of the year for billions of people worldwide.

Even staying up all night on Saturday wasn't too difficult- I was on quite the culture high. Khalda, her friend Nabib, and his daughter Amira and I went to the Suez Gulf and walked around. We smoked Shisha, drank cokes, and chowed on some street food - it was some kind of hot tomato soup like liquid with beans (since then- I've fallen in love with street food; I've had a gyros, falafel, kushari, and bamboo juice).

After our relaxation by the gulf we checked out the pier (which was deafening/beautifully sounded by drums ... and techno). There were so many people hanging out, selling tea, riding bikes, and listening to the music. There were also lines and lines of decked out boats full of more rope and dangle lights than the tackiest of houses during Christmas. Nabib treated us to a ride on one, and that's where it happened- my FIRST encounter with Egyptian dancing. Oh my Lord do they dance. It was SO fun - all the drums, hips, techno, and snaps - I felt like I had my first surreal moment of culture. So when we went home, naturally I gathered all the women and children - and we danced. Frankly, I don't think I've got enough sass and sex in me to mimic Egyptian dancing (I do better walking like an Egyptian- har har), but alas, I'm trying- and in the process giving Khalda and friends a good laugh.

I saw more dancing today when on my boat ride down the Nile. Its just so fun to see everyone come alive with the music and dancing! Some of the kids started break dancing, and although I almost got kicked in the face it was definitely a highlight (and I've got a decent video). The views were amazing on the boat ride- if only the country wasn't full of liter!

Another highlight of my weekend happened after the dance lesson (remember- it's like- 3 AM now :)), I got to go to the hair salon! It was literally a hole in the wall jam packed with women. Khalda and her friend got hair removed from their faces and brows with string- once I saw tears I turned down their offer of taking a go at me. (Eventually I let them 'sting' a side burn- it wasn't too painful) I also turned down Khalda's offer to pay for me to get my hair straightened... the iron, well, it was a metal rod that sits over a flame until it touches your hair. No thank you. I'll keep my hair, even if Khalda thinks its crazy.

Oh Khalda, Khalda, Khalda... I love her. I think one of these days I'll write a entry specific to her. If it wasn't for her generosity and bubbly nature- I'd probably be home with y'all already. Things are getting better everyday. Although, we are back in Cairo now and it's size is really intimidating! I'm trying to use the Arabic I've learned more often (the whole 10 words of it) my "Thank You", "Hello", and "Water" in English need to stop coming so naturally!

I hope all is well in the States, people here ask about you often.

All the Love,

Jeanna

They Call Me "Little Stomach" and "Sugar"

Hello Everyone!

I've been having some hard times getting decent Internet connection, but all seems to be working well right now.

All my traveling went well (even thought it was very, very long). When I was getting off the airplane the man sitting next to me (from Wisconsin) asked, "Is this your first time in Egypt? [Yes] Well then... just go with the flow." It didn't take more than two mintues to realize the importance of his words. Whenever anything is hard or confusing I've been trying to remember what he said. (And thankfully- about an hour after getting to Khalda's apartment when I had dismissed the adivce already- I had Ms. Jessica Crawford online to help me out- what a blessing)

Everything is taking a lot of adjustment. It is VERY difficult living in a country where I can't communicate with anyone easily. For being a country dependent on tourism- English is NOT known. Currently, I'm in Ismailia City visiting some friends. I haven't been able to see much of this port city- but it is much less crowded than Cairo. I got to experience the bus on the way here- and that was a cultural lesson in itself. Good thing I hadn't ate much before the ride...

Khalda is the sweetest woman. Even though I'm having a hard time adjusting to the country- it has been no fault of hers. She has done anything and everything to make sure that I am safe and having a good time... and enough to eat. I've been hearing from many of her friends, "Khalda is fat. When you go back to America - you too will be fat. You will grow a stomach living with Khalda." (Ian, I'll do my best to work it off by 45).

Currently it is the holy month of Ramadan and most Muslims only eat after sunset (around 6-6:30) and before sunrise (eating around 4:30). Khalda and friends have overcome this issue by turning into owls for a month. So far every night I've gone to bed around 4:30-5 AM and woken up around 2:30 PM. Needless to say jet lag hasn't been much of a problem. I'm not sure if a majority of Muslims switch their sleep schedule like this- or if it is just Khalda and company. Today is the last day of fasting and then we move into the 3 day celebration of the Eid. I believe in the next few days my sleeping will become a little more "normal".

Even so, this country never sleeps. At all hours of the day it is common to see people running around. Need cheese at 2:30 AM? No problem. Last night as I was falling asleep I was laughing at the Roosters who much like my fathers... just didn't seem to have the sunrise crowing right- then I realized it IS 5AM. I'm the one who is off.

Because we are visiting friends I haven't done too much exploring or saving of the world ... I'm trying to take Mike's advice and let myself enjoy this period of transition and rest. (I'm catching up on my 90s TV shows).

I'm slowly learning some vocab in Arabic, it is very difficult though. Sometimes I feel that Khalda is teaching me more than I'm teaching her!! Everything is going well... I just keep reminding myself it has only been a few days and everything gets easier with time.

And now- its time to eat.

All the Love,

Jeanna

Africa, Again.

Hello All,

Whether you've: heard it via the family grapevine, been asked for travel advice, opened my the eyes to the world of refugee advocacy, provided moral support (I needed a lot to buy my ticket), given me travel advice, or have no idea what I'm even talking about- you've all helped me in this next (2 month) life step.

I'm heading to Cairo, Egypt tomorrow!!

I will be living in Cairo for two months with a Sudanese Darfur refugee to help her learn English. This opportunity came about after my internship with Lutheran Services in Iowa Refugee Cooperative. My new roommate and host, Khalda Anwar Ahmed is the fiance of a former client of LSI.

While I'm living in Cairo, Khalda will be my personal tour guide to all the countries tourist spots, as well as a teacher of Arabic, cooking, and culture. Most importantly I hope we can build a beautiful friendship. I hope to return to the United States in November with a better understanding of life as a displaced refugee, African/Middle Eastern culture, and more travel/language/teaching experience. (Then yes, it will finally be time to put that degree to use with some kind of job and/or grad school :)).

I have re-issued my Rwanda blog -- http://jeanna12.blogspot.com/ and I'll do my best to keep it updated. I encourage you all to follow my journey- in fact, I'd love it!!

I also welcome e-mails and cards!! You can e-mail me for my address and skype.

Thanks for all your support, and I hope we can keep in touch while I'm away - or when I get back!!

All the Love,