Saturday, October 31, 2009

aysh

Yelling man/alarm clock mystery solved. After nearly two months of some man yelling the same thing everyday between 11-11:30; I finally know what he is saying. My guesses were right- he is selling bread. What I didn't know, is that he is selling it to the obese man who lives upstairs.

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

Lizard in the Bathroom

I have so many things I want to show, to share, to teach, to tell, to learn ...
There are so many things that I do not understand, do not like, do not believe, do not deserve, do not think I'll be able to live without when I leave...

My thoughts, my journal, my sentence forming skills - all a mess.

For weeks I've been forming this mini-list of things I'm going to appreciate when I return home. I've thought it would be a cute lil' diddy to post, but for reasons unknown until now I haven't been able to. Mostly I thought nothing of it; blamed backspace and my spaced-out mind.

Today I realized that it is because my list isn't very cute or funny.

A shower, comfortable bed, bug free kitchen/bathroom, English, familiar people, the concept of lines, manners, reliable electricity, cross walks, clean air, laws against litter, a basic trash program, clean water, freedom of dress/movement/media/speech...

Even I can't see where the line between superficial worries and political issues begin and end. List typed, I still don't know where to go with this.

It didn't take long to realize I wasn't just another American cruising the Nile, eating mangoes, and checking out the Pyramids. A new arrival though is the weight of being more fully emerged into a different culture.

The longer I'm here, the more I see. The more I see, the more I understand. The more I understand, the more I learn. The more I learn, the more I realize- I have no. freaking. idea.

It is a good thing I journal. It helps me process this mess of thoughts, and keeps me from talking to myself too much. Works as a good calendar too - I actually sat and stared at the date for a while today. When did my return date get so close? I can't wait for that bed ... and shower ... and ...

Hot Pink Bow Tie


Apparently, I'm not the only one in the apartment that impulse buys. Welcome to the daily life of Khalda and Jeanna:

[Khalda walks in the apartment]
K: Look what I got for my cousin's kids! [Holds up a black plastic bag]
J: Khalda, what is INSIDE the bag.
K: I'm too scared to get it out. AHHH I'm way too scared. [With one finger she pulls out this nasty furry toy cat that I scoffed at yesterday on the street] AHHHHH. I GOT IT!
J: OHMYGOD [Laughing hysterically]
K: [Turns on the beast - which prompts its eyes to turn neon green, start screaming like a dying animal, wagging its tail, and walking around the room] I'm so scared.
J: If you think it is so scary, why did you buy it?
K: I don't know, the fur is nice. [Silence - except for the demon-cat] But Jeanna, I'm really scared. Turn it off.
J: Plllllllease Khalda, don't forget to say please.

Monday, October 26, 2009

morningtimefun

Nothing like a rainy day to make you buy ridiculous things.


Cherrios: 6 US Dollars.
Tea pot that looks like a chicken: 25 US Dollars.

I would simply die and go to heaven if it crows when hot.

Baby, It's Cold Outside

Signs of Winter in Cairo:

The police men have changed from their white uniforms to black.
80 degree weather during the day and 'cold' at night.
It rained for about two minutes today, this only happens a handful of times a year.
Khalda wears sweat pants to bed now.
Street vendors have full supplies of fuzzy sweaters, mittens, wool socks, and hats.
Leather jackets - everywhere. Especially pleasant in the hot Metros.
While everyone else is shivering, I feel great!

Minnesota is going kill me.

Sunday, October 25, 2009

chore.

Showering via leaky sink and plastic bowls of various sizes hasn't gotten easier or more graceful with time; like I once thought it would.

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Thank You Ensler and Kingsolver

Tilde and I had a long conversation about what it takes to appreciate Cairo. We concluded that one 'simply' needs to have a passion for culture, an open/flexible mind and person, and an ability to see beauty in the smallest of things.

A Beauty In:

The glimpse of a leopard print shirt under the full covering of a niqab.

Piles of fruit for sale on the street; the greens of mangoes, oranges (ironic, I know), apples, peppers, and pears.

Call to prayer, 5 times a day when millions (billions around the world) take a pause in their day to drop everything and praise their God. I see it as the only consistent thing in Cairo (other than bad traffic), it comforts me.

Mostly, I see beauty in strength. In Khalda and her friends (along with the entire Sudanese community) who face daily racism, but continue on with smiling faces. In the elderly who shuffle their way around this chaotic city. In the sweat of people who work hard for minimal pay.

The women here, amaze me. I personally struggle daily with my lack of freedoms due to my sex. I get so angry about my inability to roam, dress, speak, and stare freely. Cat call after cat call, stares that burn, and a constant awareness that I'm female- by the end of the day I'm exhausted. Granted, I face a different kind of harassment than Egyptian women because I am foreign. I am young, American, and in the minds of young Egyptian males I am Angelina, Jennifer, Britney, and Beyonce combined. Yet, through all the oppression when I enter the women's cart on the metro I'm surrounded by smiles, laughter, respect, style, and love.

Today tutoring I got to meet three inspirational women. Ask me their names and I will not remember them. Ask me about their smile - and I'll do my best to describe it. All three of the women came in today, simply to talk. To practice their skills in English.

First there was the woman who works at the Cairo Opera House. She is an artist who finds happiness in the warmness of orange, yellow, and red. She lives with her mother and it is obvious she wants more, but doesn't complain. Instead she talks about her job and friends. She talks about her dreams to travel, because when she travels she feels alive.

Then there was the young Somali woman. She studies both Arabic and English to be a Social Worker. She is one of two Somali students in her class at Cairo University. Her daily 45 minute trip each way to school doesn't bother her, because here she feels safe. There is no one trying to hurt her in Cairo, no killing on the streets, a constant fear of violence does not exsist. So she complains about nothing.

I got to end my time with a middle aged single mother from Eritrea. I was able to sit beside a woman who would do anything for her children. She didn't understand a word I said in English, or a word in Arabic. She lives with only her children and a constant state confusion and fear. She knows though, that education is her key to survival. So she goes to English classes twice a week, and goes home to immediately teach her children. They teach her the Arabic that their young minds pick up so easily. She holds onto her native tounge also - her children are learning three languages.

These three women were all inspirations, to just keep - keeping on. They were all scared. Scared of being alone, of language, of homework, of the city, of the heat, of their past experiences, of what is still left. Yet, each talked about their mothers and Oprah. About their dreams and passions. Each of them had a smile on their face and in their eyes.

How can I not fall in love with a city when it holds so many surprises and so much beauty?
One just has to search for it a little harder here, but hey, welcome to the Middle East.

Saturday, October 17, 2009

Weekend.

Unfair politics, special treatment.

Fog.

Friendship, Al hamdulillah.

Wednesday, October 14, 2009

BREAKfast

I had my first day tutoring at St. Andrew's today. I help out in a lovely little library with a handful of other volunteers. Oh, how I love being surrounded by books. It was the perfect place to spend the two hours I waited for Khalda to finish her class (so we could go home together).

The moment I walked in I sensed that a book from this tiny little used book library would open my eyes to why I'm here. It sounds dramatic in type, but it happened?

I found Eve Ensler's "Insecure at Last: Losing It in Our Security Obsessed World", or maybe it found me. I literally sat down and read 2/3 without stopping or breathing for that matter.

"My experiences have led me to believe that only by wholly entering, wholly feeling, wholly inhabiting other people and experiences, are we brought to any happiness and security. Only by allowing ourselves to see what we already see and know what we already know are we freed from depression and ennui."

"How can you judge people when you have no idea where they come from?"

Ensler is EXACTLY the motivation/reminder that I needed at the one month mark of my two month journey.

(By the way, in my three hour tutoring session I sat idle for two, but spent a good 50 minutes trying to explain, breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Small steps are steps just the same.)

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

We Packed Apples and Water


OMG I saw the pyramids.

I could have sat at the edge of the Great Pyramid for hours soaking in all the people (there is a true sense of excitement and wonder illuminating from everyone), the camels/horses/donkeys- dressed in their best, children trying to sell postcards to every 'madam and sir', the "camel ride? camel ride? low price!" guys, history, tourist police (mostly just around for picture taking), the desert, a mild eeriness, Giza Cairo skyline, the overall greatness-vastness of the pyramids/Sphinx. It's been days since I've been there and I still cannot even start to wrap my mind around how those beasts were made.

Khalda and her friend Abdullah made sure that I had the ultimate pyramids experience. They wouldn't let me leave the Khafre's Valley Tomb until I dropped a coin in the 'good luck' well. They made sure we took horrible tourist photos (pushing the pyramids, petting the Sphinx). And I just had to ride a camel. That ended up being quite the adventure- ending in separation from my friends, a lot of yelling, an angry camel man, a trip to the tourist police, and a few tears - ahh, but most importantly... a lot of really great pictures. Because come on, me on a camel ... that is just hilarious. Oh, and Mother- I didn't fall off, even though I know you would have loved that.


I got the best sauna experience of my life when I went inside one of the Queen's Pyramid's and the Great Pyramid. Let me repeat - I WENT INSIDE two pyramids. To do this is not an easy experience nor for the claustrophobic. It is done by crouching down really low in a tight space, then climbing (in the Queen's Pyramid you descend) a ridiculous number of steep metal rods, holding on tightly to wooden planks while you stare at the ass in front of you, and like I said- it is hot in there. It is all worth the 50 LEs- 10USD (and in my case two days of sore legs) in those moments where I overcame the fear of crashing and looked up and around at the interior walls of the pyramid.



All around the day was simply FUN. Khalda, Abdullah and I had such a good time wandering around, taking a break in the air conditioned Solar Boat Museum, trying to remember what we've learned about ancient Egypt, laughing, taking pictures, and people watching. At the end of it all- we chowed down on some falafel and passed out on the metro.


I have seen the sunset at the Giza pryamids. Sometimes, I don't know what I've done to deserve experiences like these...

Monday, October 5, 2009

June 12th Madness

Khalda and I just discovered we have the same birthday.

We even dug out the ol' birth certificate to confirm. Once I master my Arabic numbers- I'm checking again.

I think this means we have to throw a joint birthday party... in October or November.

MISR! Mountian! Mummies!


Okay, well.... I've been up a mountain and back.

This weekend (the weekend here is Friday/Saturday) Khalda and Anwar treated me a nice vacation on the Sinai Coast. I went with a tour bus of about 20 people - a wonderful mix of Americans, Europeans, and Egyptians, etc. Mostly comprising of students, interns, journalists, volunteers, human rights activists - ma people! It was utterly exhausting and relaxing at the same time.

We drove all night to arrive at Mount Sinai around 3AM and started our trek. Thank God I had no idea what I was getting myself into. Otherwise I probably would have never signed up. Little did I know that the "nice hike" mentioned in our trip agenda was actually a hike up the second largest peak in the Middle East. Mount Sinai is the mount in which Moses is said to have spent his 40 days and 40 nights to receive the 10 commandments. It is 7,500 feet high ...

7K and 2.5 hours - of a rocky/sandy, dark, cold, camel filled path & 700 "steps" of small steep steep steep rocks, shaking legs, and a racing heart - later I reached the top with my new insta-friend/motivator/partner in panting/hotelmate Tilde (a sweet, sweet, woman from Denmark who is interning at the embassy). We made it just in time to see the sunrise. Even through it was a hazy sunrise dulled by sand, dust, and my own hunger- it was definitely one of those "life moments".


I felt pretty proud of myself too... until I saw a group of elderly people with canes reach the top- no problemo.

The way down? Well I wasn't thinking about life then...mostly just my demise if I stepped badly on one of the 3,000 "steps" on the "stairs of redemption". At least on the way down there weren't any camels in my face.

We spent the rest of the weekend in Dahab - relaxing by the Red Sea. I've never seen clearer water. It felt SO good. Think - paradise ... with no green. Mountains, sea, and tourists everywhere. I probably should have snorkeled or diving, but I was having too much fun laying without the sound of dogs, people, or car horns.


It was really nice to have some down time and meet some people working in Cairo. Talking to people who could understand me at normal talking speed was indescribably comforting. Being back in the city isn't too bad though. I missed Khalda, the pushing, and adventures of crossing the street.

- I've been spoiled -

Last week Khalda and company brought me to an Egyptian football game. Egypt is hosting the U20 World Cup right now, and it is seriously the only thing people are talking about. So we headed to Cairo Stadium to check out the Egypt (Misr)- Paraguay game. SO. MUCH. FUN. Spirits were so high (until we lost...), everyone had painted faces, a flag and/or drum in hand, lots of chip eating, cheering, and I've never done the wave so many times. In Egypt football is life- and I could feeeeeel it. It was such a fun experience. ... that I think is going to be repeated sometime this week.

I also got to check out the Egyptian Museum. In true Egyptian nature its mostly a chaotic maze of ancient unlabeled artifacts. More like our 6th grade rendition of ancient Egypt rather than a world known museum. No matter, it was somethin'else to be able to wander around such old pieces. Some of my personal highlights were the ancient royal jewelry room, any/everything King Tut, and the mummy rooms. I made fun of Khalda for being too scared to go in the mummy rooms, but I can't lie- they were pretty freaky.

Next week I'm going to start tutoring English at St. Andrew's Refugee Services I'm pretty excited to meet some more refugees, help out, and see how another program works. In just two visits I can the staff is over their head in work, but I hope I can steal them away for a bit to get some advice and conversation.

More later, Khalda is home from work - Alhamdulillah - (a common Arabic expression that means "Thank God")

All the Love,

Jeannnnnnna

Sunday, October 4, 2009

Khalda Ahmed Mohamed


Where do I even start to talk about my new roommate/friend...
Khalda : use your throat (a slight cough helps) and say hall-lee-da

Likes: Bollywood, Dancing, Chips, MiniMe, Michael Jackson, everything Sudanese, Shopping, the color Pink, Pizza, the Sunset
Dislikes: My Hair, Cats/Dogs, Camels, Egyptians/Egypt (we're trying to work on that), Stairs

Oh this woman. She is always making me take pictures of her and following it with, "So you won't forget me", but in reality I couldn't forgot her if I tried.

Khalda is 29 years old and originally from Sudan has been in Cairo for 3 years. She is living in the city as a refugee, which doesn't make her life easy here. Not helping out her situation is the fact that her heart (Mr. Anwar) lives in Des Moines, and has been for the last 4 or 5 years. But still she almost always has a smile on her face. Her ultimate goal is to make it to the US to live with Anwar in Iowa. The best way to describe Khalda is by her former jobs- a nurse and primary school teacher.

We've been clicking well.

Most apparent with a quick review of our sleeping situation is our shared amount of stubbornness. Khalda believes that because I am the guest I should sleep in her bed, and she on a mattress pad in the living room. I feel that she should be able to sleep in her own bed. So most nights one can find Khalda sleeping on the mattress pad in the living room, and I on the couch. This set up has lead to nightly 13 year old giggle sessions over our men in Iowa, some of our best English/Arabic lessons, once there were sit-ups, and a lot of movie watching (mostly a mix of Bollywood and old 90s movies). I've been learning a lot about Khalda from her reactions to American movies.

Here are some Khalda reviews (remember- MBC MAX Cairo Movie station has limited options):

2Pac the Resurrection: after a full two hours of rap, drugs, arrests, and rape charges all Khalda had to say about 2Pac was, "What a shame he never got married".
Austin Powers 2: even the mention of MiniMe can get this lady on the floor laughing... and the dancing, she loved the dancing.
Fighting Temptations: after this movie Khalda couldn't stop proclaiming her love for Beyonce, the word 'booty', and African American church choirs.

Anyway, we use the bed mostly for clothing storage and napping.

If it wasn't for our love our humor and laughing - A. I'd be home already or B. one of us would probably be seriously injured by the other. I need to record her laugh before I go home because its the definition of sweet and so dangerously contagious. Most of our laughs come during our nightly "intensive" (our normal lessons are all day/every day while we simply live and help each other out with vocab, grammar, spelling, and reading) language lessons ... usually including snacks, TV, lots of soda, pajamas, and a lot of making fun. Right now I'm helping Khalda with her reading (trying to really emphasize Past/Present/and Future). While I am working my way through the Arabic alphabet... omg it is hard. I'm not used to using my stomach help me speak nor doing crazy tricks with my throat and tongue. Needless to say, we are both struggling through each other's native tongue... but trying to have a good time doing it. Khalda is at an early intermediate level of English and doing SO WELL. Daily she is my personal translator. Sometimes I wonder if I'm teaching her at all.

I must confess- there is one thing I know I'm not teaching her... "You're welcome". Khalda has learned somewhere (I have a theory that it was The Godfather or something) that the best response to "Thank You" is "Don't mention it". Kind of normal, yes, but not when you hear Khalda's mobster/slurred version of it. I know that I will have to teach her "You're welcome", but for now I can't bring myself to end the hilarity.

More than just teaching language we've been learning a lot from each other. I am learning to dance, cook, and how to dodge cars in Cairo traffic correctly. Khalda really wants me to help her loose some kilos - we'll see how that goes. As much as I keep reminding her that 1. the gym is my idea of hell, and 2. I came to be a personal English teacher NOT trainer - she just won't loose the idea. So we'll see what happens... if anything I can use a gym for their shower (the basin bathing has been getting old and a bit awkward). I am doing my best to teach her basic things about American culture though (including a few lectures on hygiene, cleanliness, and food safety). We are both having a good time, and even when the woman frustrates me all she has to do is say, "Jeannnnna don't be mad at me" and hand me a chicken sandwich (true story) and all will be forgiven.

Khalda Khalda Khalda. It's going to be an interesting two months.
*the Picture is Khalda and our friend Rusha in Ismalia City