I've been asked what I'm going to miss most about Cairo (after Khalda, of course). Although there are many things: fresh fruit, the music - drums, hips, loudness, ridiculous nighttime dramas, warm weather, falafel & koshari, written Arabic ... I think, what I'm going to miss most is the sunset.
Perhaps it is because I came to Egypt in the last throws of Ramadan. When sunset meant it was finally time for millions to enjoy the first sips of water and tastes of food after a long day (and month) of fasting. It meant tables filled with family and friends and strangers on the streets with dates (the food) to share.
There is something about knowing that soon I'll be hearing the forth (out of five) call to prayer for the day. With about 4,000 mosques in Cairo the start of "Allahu Akbar" or "Allah u Akbar" generally saying, "God is the greatest" is sometimes early, delayed, echoed, distant or near ... but still for millions of people it is a time to pause and pray; for me, it is a time to reflect and soak in the one consistency in this country.
Everything seems just a little quieter when the sun is setting.
The colors are vibrant even through the frighteningly visible smog and pollution; hazy oranges and reds.
Unlike so many places I've experienced where the blink of an eye brings darkness after a day of sun- in Cairo, the sunset seems to stick around long enough for those who care to notice.
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