Alleyway

In Egypt the alleyways & streets smell like apple shisha.

I'm craving warm evenings.

Confused.

Just thought I'd update everyone, I've heard from Anwar (Khalda's Hubbie), sadly, he didn't bring me the news I was hoping for...

Hello Jeanna
I have been trying to call her but I wouldn't be able. The situation is getting worse. I don't know what I'm going to do. I'm just totally confuse. she has another phone number **-***-***-**** you may try it. Thank you Jeanna for asking about Khalda and Baby Ahmed. 

---
& while tensions in Egypt have been getting worse I'm still confident Khalda and little Ahmed are doing just fine. Like I told a friend last night, I'm sure she's off muttering, "I told you so, I told you so - Egyptians are crazy."

January 25th

I feel like I should be speaking out about Egypt. 

I've been getting calls and notes from friends & family telling me they're happy I'm not in Cairo right now (& I can't help but agree, but then again - I am missing out on some serious history). I'm getting a lot of ... "I hear something is going on?", "That sounds awful.", "So, what do you think?" and "How is Khalda? Her baby?". 

& the answer is yes something is going on. This didn't come out of thin air. I don't know what I think - and no, I haven't heard from Khalda.

The media has been extensive (I recommend here, here, & here). It's hard to know where to start. 

I can confidently say I agree with the mission behind the protests and the the need for change... I'm struggling to find a strong political stance (or write up a rant-y blog post) while I find myself concerned daily for my brother's and sister's basic well being. I can't seem to stop thinking about food shortages, road blocks, looting and crime in familiar streets/neighborhoods.

I'm proud of those protesting peacefully in the streets, but concerned for those in their homes. Especially groups of people such as the Sudanese who have never been welcome in Egypt. My one clear thought is that I'll have more to say when I know that Khalda, baby Ahmed and friends are okay. Don't get me wrong - this is an exciting time for Egyptians. January 25th 2011 - will be remembered, and most people are not gathering with the intent of violence or harm. But with the unrest of 19 million +, life can be made difficult for many. My dear friends could (& I imagine some are) dancin' in the streets with everyone else. But until then, I just keep reading & wondering...

& believe it or not - missing the hell out of that beautiful country. 

(oooooh, let's see what Mubarak has to say RIGHT NOW, this should be interesting).

The Travels of Tilde

 

Well, isn't it funny that after a recent post about mail, I should get some? & from Tilde at that.

Tilde, oh what a girl. Oh, this lady. She's wonderful. Fate and Karim brought us together when we both randomly set out on a solo trip to the Sinai Coast hosted by Tour Egypt . We became insta-friends.

Together we've climbed a mountain, swam in the Red Sea, been pained by hives & bus crashes, healed from hives & bus crashes, experienced an Egyptian 'aquarium', doubled our weight in bottled Coke, toured Zamalek, watched a Godfather marathon with my Sudanese pals, played hours of backgammon, toured Coptic Cairo (made it there & back with our flawless Arabic), bought Egyptian cotton sweat pants from City Stars, made plans for our future and then went on a hunt for Twilight* in Arabic (I swear it wasn't for me). 

& now, I've been so lucky to be added to this woman's travel postcard list. So far I've gotten postcards from Switzerland, Paris & Hong Kong. Funny, I'm still waiting for one from Denmark - where the lady calls home. Someday, when I can afford a slice of pizza in Copenhagen I hope to visit my dear friend.

*We found it.

TOUR EGYPT

Didn't realize how much I missed Karim and Ahmed until I read "A Tale of Two Brothers" an article about their successes as businessmen in starting and running Tour Egypt.

These brother's took me under their wing and offered everything from 3AM rides home, mountain climbing encouragement, food, adventure, employment opportunities & a real shower offers & genuine friendship. They truly changed the shape of my experience, I owe them many thanks. & probably trip to Canada.

(Photo Via Pablo/ Tour Egypt)

la porte

NEED THIS.

World Cup Fever 1

I may know little about soccer (football), but a little bit of World Cup fever is too fun to pass up! & naturally, I'm a sucker for the idea of it all - countries of the world coming together to share a common interest and have fun while doing so?! Hell yes. 

During my time in Cairo I was fortunate enough to attend two FIFA Y20 Cup games, and they were fuuuun. Red, Black, and White painted faces. Drums, horns, and flags everywhere. MISR! MISR! MISR! I can only imagine the energy in South Africa for the big boy games! Sending waves and wishes of fun, safety, and a bit of jealousy to my dear friend Ian who is in the heart of it all!

Open Windows

Windows are officially open in the Bauer household. Don't you just love this time of year? I was laying in bed the other night - enjoying the sound of - breeze, when suddenly this bug/bird (I say this, because I have no idea if this creature is in fact, a bug or a bird) started making crrrrazy noises. If only I could type them out - think: high pitches turned low with an almost circular noise, never ending. My desire for an open window was stronger than my hatred for the talkative bug/bird so I had plenty of interrupted sleep time to think about bedtime noise. Here is the product: Window Noise: Welch vs. Cairo - an official list.

Welch: faint campground noises (talking, music, children), crickets, birds, owls, the bug/bird, and on occasion - naughty Ringo.
Cairo: Cars, more cars, cars honking, cars being fixed/stolen/pounded on, next door parking garage, men (talking, yelling, laughing, singing), children (talking, yelling, laughing, singing, crying), the pet shop (cats, dogs, possible torture), pots and pans, doors opening/closing, stray cats (mating, howling, knocking things over), call to prayer, ambulances, TVs, water running.

Conclusion: I miss the Cairo noises and I'm spoiled in Welch. The end.

popcorn

Do you ever have those moments when memories rush in and consume your thoughts? In my experience these moments are typically onset by a song, photo, or place. But, last night, I closed my eyes to sleep and I felt like I was back in Roxy-Cairo. I wasn't dreaming and I obviously wasn't actually there, but I had the most realistic and slightly overwhelming memory:

I was sitting on Khalda's couch. I could hear her clanking in the kitchen and the normal chaos of Cairo streets (our porch doors were always open). Some 90s American movie was playing on the TV and I was talking to my mom on the computer. I smelt oil. & then Khalda yelled out from the kitchen, very excitedly, "Jeanna! I have surprise for you" & came into the living room carrying a heaping bowl of home-popped popcorn. I said rushed goodbyes and I love yous to my mom, thanked Khalda over and over - and together we sat happily eating our popcorn, watching some stupid movie. 

It may seem like a small moment. & I guess it was. But you see, a few days earlier Khalda and I discovered a new popcorn stand outside our metro stop. We instantly became frequent customers. I told her it reminded me of home. She felt the same way. & then, she surprised me with popcorn on some boring afternoon. Isn't that sweet? I miss her. 

A Love Song

I cannot remember how I heard about Sheikh Imam, but I listened to this Egyptian singer/oud player a lot while in Egypt. Mostly just this song- it's beautiful!!



Whenever I'd go looking for his CD in Cairo, everyone would say, "Oh nononono sell Sheikh Imam." Finally, after weeks of searching one honest salesman said, "Sheikh Imam is great oud player, bad Egyptian. He talked bad about governements." Kids, that's governmental censorship. Thank goodness for youtube. Enjoy!

NOM NOM

I hit lunchtime TV gold today ... Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations: Egypt.

Khalda and I watched this episode together & agreed it's a fairly accurate presentation of Egyptian food. I'm having a blast re-watching it. Needless to say, I'm now in a full force GIVE ME EGYPTIAN STREET FOOD mode.

Koshari was one of my favorite meals in Egypt. & I'm not the only one who loves it; Koshari is the national dish of Egypt. Everyone likes it. Everyone eats it. Nearly everyday. It's filling, cheap, and nutritious.

My first bowl of Koshari! (Take note of the men. haha, always staring. Always.)

& here's the recipe:

Ingredients:

• 1 Cup Lentils
• 3/4 or 1 Cup Chick Peas*
• 1 Cup White Rice
• 1 Cup Uncooked Macaroni (orzo/elbow)
• 1 Large Onion, diced
• 2 Tablespoons Olive Oil
• 2 Cloves Garlic, crushed
• 2 1/2 Cups Tomato Sauce
• 1/4 Teaspoon Crushed Red Pepper or Hot Sauce

Preparation:

Place lentils in saucepan and bring to a boil. Allow to simmer on low for 30 mintues, or until tender.

While lentils are cooking, also cook white rice in 2 cups of water, or according to package directions.Also, cook macaroni noodles until al dente.

Combine lentils, rice and macaroni in a large pot. * Some recipes add chick peas.

Saute onions and garlic in pan in olive oil until browned [fried]. Add tomato sauce to onions and garlic and heat until bubbling. Remove from heat.

Place a serving of lentil mixture on a plate and cover with sauce (I've also had Koshari with additional sauces such as lemon or vinegar/garlic). Sprinkle red pepper on top and serve.

Recipe from: About.com

Enjoy a taste of Egypt! mmm

Something to do today: try out a new recipe, or just add some red pepper flakes to your meal. :)

Veil Me

Today's top story on the BBC website is, "France MPs' report backs Muslim face veil ban: A French Parliamentary committee has recommended a partial ban on women wearing Islamic face veils." Should this ban get passed face covering veils will no longer be allowed in, "hospitals, schools, government offices and on public transport."

BBC article:( http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/europe/8480161.stm)

First off... I cannot say that I understand everything (the personal, the political, the religious, the feminist, the submission, the pressure, the comfort, etc.) about veiling. I cannot say I have a background on French policy, nor the Koran. I cannot even say that I have a clear opinion on the matter.

But here is what I CAN say:

-I've seen the the negative treatment of veiled women in United States hospitals, airports, and city streets. Smart, kind, beautiful women, who are all wonderful mothers, daughters, and friends.
-I've lived with a woman who chooses to veil for the respect of her parents, community members, and mostly, herself and her God.
-I've veiled my own body out of respect and fun (and only once because of pressure).
-Most of the women with whom I've been in contact have had the choice to veil or not. On the contrary, I also realize that not all women in the world are allowed to choose and that, is a serious issue needing attention.

-I know that there are different types of veils ranging from popular hijabs to more full covering niqabs and burkas.
-I believe that Vogue could have a hay-day with the spunk, colors, patterns, and creativity of female Islamic fashion. (Aesthetically, I was never let down on the women's Metro cart in Cairo).
-I know that early Christian women veiled (including the Virgin Mary).
-In my experience, most women do not veil in their own homes around close family and friends (both male and female) that they love and trust.

My dear friend Khalda, beautiful with and without her veil. Always blue, pink, or floral.

In my opinion, there is nothing to be scared of - if only we can respect a women's personal decisions, reexamine our ideas on beauty, and fear not things we do not understand.

Something to love today: personal style.

A Spoonful of Sugar

Tomorrow I'm going to the Doctor. I'm not overly excited about this, but I am thankful. I'm thankful for the option of buying (some) medications over the counter- that work. For knowledgeable, respectful, and rule-abiding medical staff. I'm thankful that at 22 years old, I have a basic, common sense understanding of my body. This thankfulness, is new. & completely due to experiences in Cairo.

Once again, thankfully I can say that I had no need for urgent medical care while in Egypt, but I did have my run in's with flaws in the system. Including but not limited to: an over the counter cough medicine that knocked out it's takers for 3+ days; paramedics that were not trained to set broken arms or stitch cuts; a friend whose doctor answered his cell phone during surgery.

I also found myself explaining to many of my friends how their body works. Things I've known since high school like: the effects of high cholesterol, the reason for menstrual cramps, the ways that our body is linked (one friend was convinced his ears hurt because of cell phone use, but had nothing to do with his rotting teeth), the importance of hydration, negatives in extreme dieting, and the benefits of taking the stairs! I was also the drug dealer ... ibuprofen, nasal decongestants, and anti-diarrhea pills. Egypt has no laws on drug testing so my meds from America were magical.

So what's the issue? Health wise- it's a mixture of vitamin deficiencies, malnutrition, contaminated water (outside of large cities), extreme pollution, and lack of basic health education. In terms of medical care - it's understaffed hospitals, a majority of people who are unable to pay for care, and a lack of modern equipment.

Interesting facts:
In Egypt, most vaccines and other shots can be bought over the counter, and people inject themselves.
Many Egyptians are learning more about their bodies and health from American TV shows such as Dr. Oz and The Doctors translated in Arabic.

One benefit of all this is the popularity of natural remedies. One simple, fabulous, Khalda concoction got me out of a few rough days: Hot Lemon Water. Simply - boil water, once hot- squeeze in the juice from one half a lemon, add a few spoonfuls of sugar, wa-la... instant fever reducer, stomach ache healer, and cold eraser.

Something(s) to love today: your mother, your doctor, and your body.

Some Warmth For These Cold Days

No Worries

I never know what day of the week it is. Seriously, if it wasn't for Christmas trees, presents, and twinkle lights I'd probably still think its November. I'm convinced someone or something is eating time. Anyway, here I find myself more than a month out of Cairo. A month of cold, a month traffic laws, a month without falafel, a month without hearing Arabic.

I can't lie- I thought that by now my world would be rocked. I'd be slipping around on the ice of Minnesota as a new person.

Every day I change and learn new things, but travel presses my buttons. My high school trip to France started me up for business. I learned to take charge and lead in Australia. Rwanda infused my whole being with the love of people and culture. And Cairo? Two months in Egypt ... still waiting. What the HECK!? Where is my breakthrough!? So far, I've only been seeing the breakthrough or rather, breakdown of my bank account.

Wasn't some BIG change part of my package deal?

Of course, this is drama speaking. Not a day goes by that I don't think of the beauty and hospitality of my friends in Egypt. Or the colors of a country filled to the brim with ancient culture and people. But I'm talking about me. What has changed about me?! Other than a higher tolerance for noise and fiber.

Well...

Tolerance is the key word, I think. Tolerance.

Not exactly what I would have predicted pre-Cairo, but nevertheless, I think TOLERANCE has been my gift from Egypt. Shukran Egypt for your creation of civilization, beer, language, etc etc ... and thank you for tolerance.

Tolerance, patience, understanding, sympathy ... however you want to say it, well, I think I've got it! After two months of living amongst some 19 million people, without the right of freedom of speech and movement, a schedule on 'African time', and uselessness of English. This year's holiday shoppers, long lines, bad winter drivers, crying children, and a few extra cookie calories are nothing. "No Problem/No Worries" was the English phrase I heard most in Egypt, and did I ever pick it up.

The phrase and mindset of "No Problem" have become a daily essential in my life. Because really, what are we stressing about? Why are we in such a hurry, and what is the point of dwelling? We've got a life to live people, and we're living it amongst a world full of unpredictable human beings. LET THINGS GO. This new level of tolerance may or may not be my Egyptian breakthrough, but whatever brought it on - I like it.

Life presents itself more beautifully when we're not worrying about the small stuff.

Happy Holidays and Hakuna Matata!

Lee-Da

Festival Time

Bare trees, red decorations, Christmas music, warm food, and chilly weather.

I've officially arrived back in the United States just in time for the holiday season. For that, I am thankful.

I thought I would freeze after being spoiled by Cairo's weather, but the warmness of family, friends, and the holiday season have treated me well. Wool socks, tea, and quilts haven't hurt either.

Thanksgiving was a success, and I'm so happy I was home for it. Thank God for America and a holiday focused on feasting, chatting, napping, and ad shopping! Now, I just need to gear up and bundle up for Christmas.

My friends in Egypt and Muslim friends around the world are also in the midst of holiday celebrations. During my time in Cairo I was fortunate enough to celebrate the end of Ramadan, Eid ul-Fitr. Approaching now is the Eid al-Adha (Eid meaning "Festival"). According to a BBC article (linked), "Eid al-Adha, the Feast of the Sacrifice, is a three-day festival that is celebrated after the Hajj - the annual pilgrimage to the holy city of Mecca that every Muslim who can afford to and is capable is required to perform once." During this time individuals focus on the ideas of sacrifice, giving, and sharing.

Sound familiar Thanksgiving and Christmas celebrators? During this holiday season lets remember that people around the world have more similarities than differences. The joys of love, sharing, and good friends and family are bigger than religion, skin color, and nationally.

'Egyptians Gear Up for Eid al-Adha'

Let us remember our neighbors both near and far during this holiday season.

Bittersweet

Trying to soak it all in.

SingSing

An interesting article from BBC about the upcoming changes to Cairo's call to prayer...

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/middle_east/8344055.stm

Personally, I enjoy the chaos. In fact, I can hear it right now. :)